2026-05-15 Eguisheim in the Rain

 Friday, May 15  2026

Dan and Paulette have plans to visit a friend in the afternoon today. So, our group plan is to visit Eguisheim in the morning, and to eat a picnic lunch in Eguisheim. Oh, and see if we can find the Gruss tasting room which is the family winery of René's sister. Eguisheim is a short 15 minutes west of Logelheim, so the trip is short. Dan drove his own car so that they could leave after lunch for their visit. 

map - Logelheim to Eguisheim

We found parking in the same lot as before - where the town becomes pedestrian only.  Walking toward the Tourist Office, we passed the Gruss winery and made a note to visit it on our way out. 

The courtyard of the Gruss winery

Skies were partly blue with increasing clouds, but the temperature felt a bit warmer than yesterday. As might be expected on a holiday weekend, Eguisheim was crowded with all kinds of tourists, including a group of Americans on bikes. 

walking the ramparts of Eguisheim

As before, we took the circular tour around Eguisheim's former ramparts, whose defensive stone walls now form the back wall of  the houses on both sides of the road, many with shops on the ground floor. 

the route we followed

Judy at the beginning of the walking tour

While Dave and Judy searched for buildings that match the numbers on their guide, Paulette and I, gimpy as we are, only stopped for interesting things that caught our eye. 

One of the placards posted on a building along the route

This is a "little library" placed next to a bench shaded by a tree.

This sign below the little library says: The wings of knowledge....on the froth of words

This walk, despite the crowds, provided several lovely and peaceful moments where one is transported back to days in the 19th century. 

Paulette by some beautiful flowers

more flowers 

Window framing with carved writing. Heiliger Geis means Holy Ghost. The date seems  to be 1686. The other carved letters are likely the initials of the house owners when the house was built.

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roses are blooming

Having circumnavigated the ramparts, we turned toward the center of town, the Place du Chateau. And it started to rain, sprinkles at first, then constant rain. Thank goodness for two cars because, while I was sheltering under the overhang of one of the stores on the square, Dan returned with 3 umbrellas from his car. Thank you, Dan. 

Place du Chateau 

While the others went into the church to look around, I watched the storks in their nests high on the church roof. After visiting the inside of the cathedral, we walked back toward the cars. Our stop at Gruss winery was unsuccessful as it was now closed for lunch. We'll have to go another day.

Three storks on the church roof

By the time we got to the parking lot, the rain had stopped. We found dry spots under the eaves of the vintage wine press. Luckily the rain held off until we finished lunch. Then it started to really rain. We quickly packed up and put the scooter into the back of the car. Judy, Dave & I headed back to Logelheim. Dan & Paulette headed north for their visit. 

Lunch under the overhang of the wine press in the parking lot. Paulette, Judy, Dave

Dan, Paulette, Judy

Dave grilled pork tenderloin in the rain and Judy made a delicious zucchini stir fry for a late dinner. Another satisfying day.

As we 

2016-05-14 Riquewihr and lunch on the slopes of the Vosges

 May 14, 2026

We have lunch reservations for 2 pm at another Michelin restaurant Dan and Paulette had discovered on a previous visit. It is not far from Riquewihr, so we will stop here for a brief visit. The last time we were in Riquewihr, it was sunny and warm (aka shorts weather). Today is quite different. Cloudy skies and temps in the 50s. 

Did I mention it was cold? Lynn (in her new Strasbourg ski hat), Paulette, Judy, Dave

We parked in the same lot as last time, just a block from the Hotel de Ville entrance to the city. It's much busier today than last time we were here. It is Ascension weekend and schools and businesses are closed for the holiday. 

The streets were crowded with people

Once through the Hotel de Ville entrance, the main street of the old town stretches straight up the hill toward the vineyards that lie just outside the town. As one of the Plus Beaux Villages of France, Riquewihr has managed to maintain its 16th century appearance and medieval fortifications, including stretches of the double walled defenses of the medieval town. As evidenced by the vineyards surrounding the town, its wealth comes from producing wine. 

Notice the vineyards above and below this restaurant sign

Paulette at the city gate - The area between the two gates would have been a dry moat at one time, but now houses are built up against the walls

Outside the walls (now rear walls of houses) is a lovely park with path to walk around the outside of the ramparts

Once more, half-timbered houses line both sides of the main street (Rue du Général de Gaulle).

The Hotel de Ville gate

A lucky shot with hardly any people in the picture!

Paulette on Rue du Général de Gaulle

Some houses had carved timbers, often indicating the profession of the owner.

The nail-maker's house

Others had decorated windows that asked you to look twice. 

a very decorated house

At the far end of the street stood the Dolder, the northwest entry gate to the city. Once through the High Gate (la Porte Haute) you were outside the towns defensive perimeter.

Lynn, Paulette, Dave, & Judy in front of the Dolder tower

We didn't have time to circle the town by its rampart walls. We had to start a new adventure -getting to our lunch restaurant - which used to be a hermitage. That should give you a clue that this restaurant is a hidden gem, emphasis on HIDDEN.  

We headed west into the Vosges and really didn't need our GPS as there was only one narrow forest road with no markings leading up the 2000 feet to the auberge. Oh, and did I mention there were lots of hairpin turns in this road? Luckily we didn't meet very many cars going down as there were no shoulders and the drop off into the forested land was quite steep. We did have to pass several bicyclists (one from Jumbo Visma - according to his jersey) who were practicing their mountain climbs. 

The Auberge St Alexis is on the inventory of architectural heritage sites according to the French Ministry of Culture. Built in the 15th century, probably as a hunting lodge for local nobility, the chapel and house later became a hermitage and then a farm. The current restaurant is located in the half of the house that would have been the barn. 

We're here!

In front of the auberge - Judy, Lynn, Paulette

It would be a lovely site for lunch on the patio in warm, sunny weather.

Looking out from the patio

We arrived at 2, but in typical French fashion, our table could not be made available until the previous people left. One of the differences between French and American restaurants is that the French sit long at table, eating in courses, ending in a cup of coffee. They are never hurried and are only provided the bill when they ask for it. We started waiting outside but it was too cold so we were offered seats in a room set for a group with a small number of members. We were able to order drinks while we waited and we also ordered our food as the kitchen was closing in order to clean up and prepare for the dinner guests. 

Taking our lunch order on the terrace

We all ordered the 3-course menu which started with soup, then main course, and finally dessert. Dave and Dan ordered the choucroute garnie (sauerkraut with various meats). I ordered smoked duck with fries and Judy and Paulette ordered chicken. We were finally seated around 3 PM and quickly served the soup course.

Squash soup - served family style in a soup tureen

We also checked out the charming dinnerware, 

It is clear that many people hike up to the restaurant, have lunch, and then hike down again. Many hiking poles and backpacks were stewn around the floor and most were in hiking clothes. The tone was rather raucous, but became quieter as groups of people left. It was an entirely enjoyable lunch adventure. We too lingered over dessert and coffee, finally leaving at 4:30 to head home.

Once home, we were visited by René with a bottle of wine and the fixings for a fire in the fireplace. He build the fire, showing Dave & Dan just how to do it, then sat at table with us to chat and take a bit of wine. It turns out that the wine René shared came from his brother-in-law's winery in Eguisheim (a short distance from here). Next time we're in Eguisheim, we'll have to find the Gruss tasting room.

René and Dave pouring wine from the bottle René brought.

Dan, wine, and the fire

After René left, Dan was able to prepare his special meal of white asparagus  and smoked salmon, served with Muscat wine. Of course there were strawberries. Delicious, but none of us are used to eating dinner at 9. Although it is very French to do so.

Dan's beautiful presentation of his white asparagus

Muskat served in wine glasses that used to be typical of this region. Now they seem to be out of fashion.

We are constantly amazed by the lucky circumstances of our visits to France. It certainly helps to have good friends who have experience in this region. Some is dumb luck - like having René as a host. He has so many stories about this town and its people. Our welcome couldn't be warmer. Our adventures teach us so much about the French and their customs. We are certainly blessed.

2026-05-13 Strasbourg

 Wednesday, May 13, 2026

Today, Judy arrives at the Strasbourg train station at 5:37 PM. So, our plan for the day is to visit Strasbourg, have lunch at a restaurant, and collect Judy and her suitcase at the train station.

Strasbourg Centre Ville

Cathedral Square

I had forgotten how powerfully emotive Strasburg is. We arrived late morning, had good luck finding the parking near the cathedral and even found handicapped parking in the underground parking facility.

Merry-go-round on Gutenburg Square

As we came up, at noon, onto Gutenburg Square with the very large merry-go-round, the bells of Strasburg cathedral (Notre Dame de Strasbourg) began to peal - a harmonious song of many notes. It filled the square around the cathedral and the blocks beyond. I was mesmerized as the sound continued for many minutes before ringing 12 times to announce noon.

Paulette listening to the bells of Notre Dame de Strasbourg

High Gothic west facade of Notre Dame de Strasbourg

Statues on the west facade above the entrance

Not only was the sound of the bells powerful, the facade itself towered over us when we turned down the street leading to the cathedral. Until 1874, Strasbourg cathedral was the tallest church in the world. It is also one of the most visited. Its Gothic west facade towers over the buildings that line the street to the cathedral square. 

Walking toward Cathedral Square

Since laying its cornerstone in the 11th century, much of the cathedral has suffered from fires and wars, each time rising from rubble to a better, more modern church, a pattern followed by many French cities. This included the French Revolution when the "Enragés" (an early left wing organization) smashed the statues on the west facade. Most recently, US and British bombs caused significant damage in 1944 which has now been repaired. The cathedral shows the effects of these disasters in its pink sandstone (quarried in the Vosges) and blend of architectural styles. 

Dave, Lynn, & Paulette on the south side of the cathedral

In this square there was a stone table - a monument to the stonemasons who built the cathedral. Each stonemason had a unique symbol that he carved into each stone he dressed. This monument helps us remember the craftsmen who literally made the cathedral

Religious services were discontinued during both the French Revolution (The cathedral was renamed a Temple of Reason) and during WWII when Hitler forbade religious services in the church, intending to turn the church into a German state memorial at the end of the war. 

South transept of the cathedral

The inside is as impressive as its outside. The nave with its Gothic columns towers above the heads of visitors and leads to the high altar.. 

High Altar

This amazing astronomical clock was located in the south transept of the cathedral. It was built in the 16th century, stopped working in 1780, and rebuilt in the 1800s. It still keeps time, although it is a half hour behind. And the complicated movements of planets and biblical figures from the life of Christ parade at noon (really 12:30) every day.

Rose window and one of the organs

Paulette sitting in the back of church just in front of the main organ

We followed the tourist walking tour, at least part of it. We, of course, found lots of cool things to look at. 

A medieval courtyard, now a hotel

This half-timbered house is decorated with storks and gingerbread

For lunch, Dan had found a Michelin restaurant, that is, one of the Strasbourg recommendations found in the Michelin Green Guide. That's quite prestigious and difficult to get.  This restaurant is called  Au Pigeon, for good reason. There are 2 pigeons carved into panels on the front of the restaurant.

The restaurant first appeared in the 1300s.  In 1580 a brasserie opened with the name Au Pigeon. The name has continued up to today with changes of owners over time. The current family has run this restaurant since 1964. 

The restaurant is the brown building after the forsythia where Lynn and Paulette are standing.

Inside is decorated in the 18th century style for a brasserie (a bar & grill type restaurant). 

Au Pigeon

The food was typical Alsatian cuisine. Notice the happy customers

Duck, fried potatoes & red cabbage. Yum!

Dave & Lynn

Dan & Paulette

After lunch, we walked along the canal in an area called Little Venice. It was a lovely stroll which would have been even better if it had been sunny and warm.

The Strasbourg train station is outside of town, so we had to drive with the rush-hour traffic to get to the airport. Right on time, Dan and Dave went off to find Judy while Paulette and I stayed in the car. It took a bit to find Judy since there are multiple ways for her to get from the level of the tracks to the main entrance. Once collected, we were on the way home.

Aperos for dinner to welcome Judy to France - Lynn, Judy, Paulette

What could be more appropriate for our way of visiting France?