2026-05-01 Neuf Breisach

 

Today is May 1, Fête de Travail - aka Labour Day or International Workers' Day.    It is a day for demonstrations and union protests. It's also known as La Fête de Muguet (Lily of the Valley). It's a paid holiday in France and nothing will be open today - no bakery, no grocery store, no croissants. 

May Day as a workers' day began in the United States in 1886 with workers in Chicago demanding an 8-hour workday. In 1890, French workers, in solidarity with US workers, went on strike demanding an 8 hour work day, 8 hours of sleep, and 8 hours of leisure. This became French law in 1919. By 1936, May Day protests in France had become a symbol of social demands. Eventually, workers won a 40 hour work week, 2 weeks of paid vacation, and recognition of labor unions. (Sounds a lot like the US path.) There are still large protest marches across France on May 1 for better working conditions, higher wages, and this year, against rising costs due to the instability across the world.

Muguet (lily of the valley) are given as tokens of good luck on May 1. This pagan tradition, later appropriated by the Catholics as Mary's tears, or Eve's tears, has been celebrated since 1561 when it was offered to ladies of the king's court. Today, offering lily of the valley to friends, colleagues, or family, is a symbol of appreciation.

But it is also a holiday and many towns hold fests to celebrate the coming of spring. We have found such a fest in Neuf-Brisach, just a few kilometers from Logelheim.

Neuf-Brisach (New Brisach) sits on the western side just 2 km from the Rhine River, directly across from Briesach in Germany. As you might imagine from the turbulent history of lords, and kings, and their conflicts, Neuf-Brisach has changed from French to German many times over. 

The town is known for its fortifications, designed by Vauban, the famous military engineer for King Louis XIV. Vauban had military experience as a soldier, thus became a successful designer of fortifications. Neuf-Brisach is his last design. 

Satellite image of Neuf Brisac with its geometric center and an octagonal defense system

Our hostess has left us a small breakfast cake which we ate in place of our normal croissants. Thank you, Dominique! The car ride is short and, in spite of the fact that the town is full of parked cars, we were able to find a handicapped place just a short block from the main square of the fest. It was easy to know where to find the fest. People were headed in that direction, we could hear accordion music, and the smell of sausages cooking was in the air. 

Just follow the crowd

Neuf-Brisach is laid out in a grid plan where the center is a 4 block public square. The church sits in the northwest corner adjacent to the main square while the surrounding blocks contain commercial buildings.

The fest was only beginning and there were few people. But the entertainment was already beginning. We first passed a band made up of 5 accordionists who were playing foot-stomping music near the food concessions. 

This Retro Band of geriatric players from Turckheim was really good.

The central square was filled with carnival rides and loud music was coming from the merry-go-round. On all 4 sides of this square a flea market was set up, with vendors displaying lots of interesting stuff. Unfortunately (or fortunately for our bank accounts) we couldn't fit any of it into our suitcases. 

At one corner, the fire department had a food stand. They were cooking tarte flambée - that flat pizza like we had in Gengenbach. Interesting to see. 

Dale had to stop to chat with these firefighters.

Making tarte flambée over a wood grill. 

But it is the fortifications that are mind-boggling. Laid out in an octagon with an inner protective wall, a dry moat outside that wall, followed by defensive walls where the actual fighting took place. The dry moat is wide - an area larger than the city itself, while the outer defensive walls have angles, earthen works, and places that protected soldiers as they moved through the dry moat. 

We picked the walking tour path to get to the ramparts which only offered steps down to the dry moat for an entrance. David and our wonderful friends and family carried my scooter, in pieces, down these stairs so that I could come with on this exploration.

The gate to the ramparts - the only one not handicapped accessible

The dry moat can be accessed without steps from several points around the city (we had been told it is handicapped accessible) to allow for strolling or biking, or, in our case, exploration. We could have made it easier on us all.

The re-assembled scooter and the stairs behind

Walking along the gravel path of the moat between the city and defensive walls.

Currently, there is a sculpture exhibit beside the path with some interesting modern metalworks. 

Janis & Clark in front of sculptures in the moat.

Artwork along the path

This bull guards the bridge entrance into the city.

Parts of the dry moat are being used for parking today with blue-vested volunteers stopping and directing traffic through the one-lane bridge into the city. 

Cars parked in the dry moat. Good thing we didn't decide to walk in that direction.

As we returned through the gate (by the road this time), it was clear that the fest was getting to full steam. 

The central square was full of people. Pretzels and sausages and half-chickens were being consumed by fest goers. And the various programs of music had begun. We heard the loud and enthusiastic beat of a drum corps as we walked back to the central square. 

These athletic and enthusiastic drummers were from Neuf-Brisac

As that band finished, another drum corps took its place, this time with two women dressed in feathery costumes leading the parade. 

This band was a Portuguese association. The second dancer had the same costume in green.

The streets around the central square were now crowded and it was a slow process to make our way back to the square in front of the Hotel de Ville where we planned to eat lunch at the picnic tables provided by the fest. Along the way, we saw two groups of folk dancers who were costumed, excellent dancers, and very entertaining. 

It can't be caught in still photos, but one of the dances was a husband/wife spoof that ended with the wives "slapping'' their husbands' faces and then the couples making up with a kiss. It was hysterical to watch. 

To get food, one buys a ticket for the menu item of choice. We settled on sausages in bread and French fries. While the guys stood in line to buy tickets and then collect the food, Janis and I found an empty picnic table. 

lunch with a beer

Lunch finished, we were also finished. We were glad we came mid-morning when it was calmer. Now, at 3 pm, the fest was in full swing. 

This fest was so typical of the fests we've been to over the years - happy people, fest foods, music, carnival rides, and lots of catching up neighbor to neighbor. I wondered if we were the only English-speaking fest-goers at this very local event. However, there were lots of locals!

At home, Dale grilled sausages, Janis roasted white asparagus and we had salad with the fresh from the garden lettuce Dominique left for us. Another day in the books.

Dale at the grill

dinner

As Dave would say, "Just another sh**ty day in Paradise."