2026-04-26 Turkheim and the Porte Ouverte

Dave has seen signs for a Porte Ouverte at the Cave de Turckheim wine coop, so we have to go, of course! A Porte Ouverte (open door) is an invitation by a winery to visit, taste (and buy) wine, and celebrate this year's release of the latest vintage. As we drive away, our irises are in full bloom and our driveway looks like a Van Gogh painting.

 



Turckheim is not far from Colmar, on the Route des Vins, and has a wine cooperative. It's too large (4000 inhabitants) to be a Plus Beaux Village, but it is old with vestiges of its history still intact.








Sign at the entrance to Turckheim



We found a place to park near the south-facing Porte de France, the main entrance to the city. Turckheim has 3 gates as it was built as a triangular fortification with gates on the east, west, and south.



We parked on the street next to this river.







Doing our best tourist impression - Kim, Lynn, & Dave




This man is playing steel drums at the entrance to Turckheim. His basket sits in front of him to collect tips.





Once inside the gate, panels like below helped us understand what we were seeing.











The City Hall was directly in front of us and on the open air ground floor an local artist was exhibiting of watercolors. We were able to talk to him about his work. I bought several postcards which I will send to the grandkids. I wish I thought I could safely get a painting home. They were my style.




City Hall

Following the tour directions, we headed north, stopping to look at the grounds of the local WWII museum. Colmar was the center of a battle for the Pocket of Colmar. As the Allies moved toward the Rhine River, pushing the Germans out of France, they were able to secure the Strasburg area in the north and the Mulhouse area in the south, but the middle - where Colmar is located - remained in German hands. Fighting was fierce in the cold and snow of Alsatian winter. US and French forces lost about 20000 soldiers as did the Germans. Colmar was left in ruins. We've learned that in this area, the Germans added insult to injury by conscripting local men to fight in the German army against their homeland. These men are also memorialized on the monuments found in Alsatian towns.



Sign at the WWII museum


Dave looking at WWII artillary at the WWII museum



Porte du Munster on the east side

The Porte du Munster is the second gate into Turkheim. Walking to the outside of this gate gives one a good view of the surviving medieval walls and moat. But now we have to hustle. Clark and Janis arrive in Colmar this afternoon and we're hoping to eat lunch at the Porte Ouverte. Signage leads the way, but so do the people crowding the roads walking up to the non-descript wine cave. We're directed to rock star handicapped parking. At the entrance we are given a wine glass that we can carry in a pocket around our necks (and keep!) Inside is busy and we have to wait to get to the bar. We're able to taste as much as we like, but keep to just a few. Of course, there's shopping for wine.



Entrance to the wine tasting



Sampling the wines with our new wine glasses.





Still tasting



We then made our way up the hill where a party was going on. Food carts, picnic tables, and lot of people. Oh, and a loud DJ. After lunch, we headed back to the house in Logelheim. Some of us stayed behind while Dave & Dale went to pick up Janis & Clark at the Colmar train station.



The party up the hill


Pick up and arrival went smoothly.


We grilled turkey for dinner and enjoyed catching up with the Hunsingers who were coming from a Bordeaux wine tasting week that sounded pretty spectacular. We are so lucky to all be able to still travel and have wonderful adventures.

2026-04-25 Eguisheim

 

Our trip today takes us to the first of our Plus Beaux Villages (Most Beautiful Villages) which also has a couple of possible wineries. Best of both worlds. And bonus, it's only a few miles away. 

To become a Plus Beaux Village, villages of less than 2000 inhabitants apply to the organization that then vets these applicants for membership in the association. In addition to having fewer than 2,000 residents they must also have 2 national monuments and agree to abide by the rules of the organization. 

Members of the Association of Plus Beaux Villages proudly show this sign.

We found parking behind the city hall (Rathaus) and walked the block to the Tourist Office. Armed with maps and city info, we began the walking tour. The village was full of visitors as we suspected. While parking, we had seen several tour busses arrive and discharge their passengers and tour guides. But, surprisingly, when we got on the tour route, there were only a few tourists like us. (Were they all tasting wine?)

The center of Eguisheim still maintains its double-walled, round, fortified shape. As we walked the path between these walls, we are delighted to find beautifully kept houses that are hundreds of years old. In several places wall panels explain what we are seeing.

Walking Tour Map - Eguisheim

 

One of the signs posted to explain what we were seeing

While its roots date back to the paleolithic times, the Eguisheim we visit today shows us its medieval version. The town owes its existence to the gentle slopes of the Schlossberg hills where, in addition to its sheltered location, Romans planted vines and medieval monks established viticulture for producing their sacramental wine. Today, Eguisheim is part of the Alsatian Route des Vins (wine route). It produces two Grand Cru wines: Pfersigburg (Gewurztraminer) and Eichberg. But for most of us, the allure of Eguisheim is its medieval character. 

This may have been a pigeon house, but still....

Over each window lintel are carved letters and numbers. We learned at stop 4, that the date is when the house was built and the initials before and after were those of the couple that first moved into that house. 

This  house was built in 1685 by A & B (initials of owners)

While the cobbles rattle my teeth, the cost is worth it to see this village in its spring finest. Houses face the inside of the ring while their windowless back walls of stone form part of  the city's ramparts. Houses are dressed in their finest with flowers and ancient viticulture tools. 

We passed a lovely Easter display of simply-made fabric chickens. This looks like a grandchildren project. What do you think, kids?

The center of town opens into a large square with a fountain in the center. A small castle named in honor of Pope Leo IX, (born in 1002) the town's most famous son rises on the left. Next door is the village church. 

Place du Chateau in the center of town.

As your eye makes its way up to the castle roof with its Burgundy-like patterned tiles, you can see large piles of brush on the rooftops of the castle and church. 

Roof of Pope Leo's chateau

These are stork nests! While there are many storks in this region, I've never seen so many in close proximity, preening and showing off for us. What a treat!

We walked back to the the parking lot to retrieve our lunch which we then ate in the shade of an ancient wine press.

lunch in the shade of an old wine press. Notice the Petit Train (tourist train) in the background

After finishing lunch, we crossed the street to visit the Wolfberger Wine Cooperative to do a little wine shopping. 

Sales floor at Wolfberger Wine Coop

We bellied up to the bar to taste some of their wines. We tasted 3 wines - didn't like the Pinot Gris, but liked the Sylvaner, and Pinot Blanc. Somehow we ended buying 9 bottles, including some we hadn't tasted. 

Tasting counter - so many to choose from!

Tasting - notice the menu of all the wines you can taste.

Of course we went shopping

Dale chauffeured us home via a cowpath where we had aperos and salmon dinner on the patio. 

Bon Appetit et bonsoir!

2026-04-24 Freiburg Germany

 

To the Black Forest in Germany

Today started with the run for croissants. We’re not up super early, so boulangeries are sometimes out of croissants. This was the case today. We ended up with “grand pain” and Dale’s éclair. A mild tragedy, but not our preferred choice.

Oh, and they found our local strawberry stand on the route. Closed but promising.

Our goal today is “lange-rote” (long-red) for lunch, a specialty of Freiburg im Brisgau, Germany, 45 minutes east of us, across the Rhine River. While EU countries can cross borders to other countries without showing papers, we decided not to take a chance and carried our passports with us. But, alas! Neither the Germans nor the French took any interest in our rental car with its passengers.

Freiburg (literally Free City) was established in the 1100s as an “independent fortified city of free citizens”. Schwabentor and Martinstor gates remain from these medieval fortifications.

Freiburg today is a large, university city (population about 355,000) whose center city is vibrant and busy.  The center is a mix of very old buildings and very modern buildings. Situated on the Dreisam River, one unique characteristic of the city is its system of “bächle” -little streams of water that flow in canals along most streets. Small children can be seen sailing little wooden boats on string in these tiny canals. Shops offer a variety of models to choose from.

    

We made our way to the Rathaus (city hall) to find the Tourist Office, always our first stop.

In the “Neues Rathaus” (the New City Hall) next door, is space that can be used as a wedding venue. Many Germans are married in civil ceremonies rather than in the church. And this was the case here. A young couple was mingling inside with their guests following the ceremony. Their decorated wedding car – a Rolls Royce – awaited them outside.

Unlike most of the rest of Germany which became Protestant during the Reformation, Freiburg remained Catholic. Its Münster (cathedral) sits at the center of the city, on the largest square in the city.

 

Built from red sandstone between about 1200-about 1500, the cathedral escaped bombing damage in WWII, but is constantly under repair because of the deterioration of the soft sandstone. Luckily, Freiburg has its own school of stonemasons.

Surrounding the cathedral is the daily market where we expect to find the vendors of our lange-rote.

 We should not have worried. Every 4^th vendor was selling sausages of some kind. And all had the long red sausages Freiburg is famous for.  Lynn and Dave ordered a traditional lange rote while Kim and Dale opted for the cheese thuringer.

The market encircled the münster and was full of booths selling flowers, food, clothing, souvenirs and about any other item you may desire.  Strolling through the market like the tourists we are, we did find small bags of bon bons that we remembered from when we lived in Germany 50 years ago. Of course, we bought them.

Wysteria is in season and was often seen clinging to the buildings we walked by.

Cafes were full of people enjoying the good weather.

 

Also claiming a place of honor on the Münster Platz is the historical “Kaufhaus” (Merchants Hall).

Following the walking tour, we were off to the nearby Schlossberg mountain which was across the street from Schwabintur tower - one of the original gateways to the city.  Dave, Kim and Dale hiked the mountain in search of the promised views of the city center.  The Schlossburgtur did not disappoint as there were many steps that culminated in spectacular views of all points north and west.