2026-05-16 Good-byes & Mulhouse

 Saturday, May 16, 2026

Dan and Paulette left for Brussels early this morning (at least early for us). Their visit was too short, but in the time we had, we traded stories of kids, travel, the "good old days" and life in general. We had a great time adventuring together. 

Luckily, Judy is still here, so the adventures will continue. Today, Judy and Dave decided to visit Mulhouse to look at art galleries. It's still cold and threatening rain so I stayed behind to catch up on writing this blog and I took a much needed nap. Below is their report: 

Place de Réunion, taken from the steps of the church

As you can see, Mulhouse is also cold and cloudy, although Judy and Dave missed the rain while visiting an art gallery. While looking at buildings on the Place de Réunion, they noticed something a bit strange on the side of the Hotel de Ville (City Hall). 

One end of the Hotel de ville - the painting below is between the windows on the first floor

This is what's painted on the town hall - see translation below

The  Klapperstein - "gossip stone"

Apparently, until 1798, if you were judged a gossip or liar, you were sentenced to wear this Klapperstein - a heavy carved stone - around the neck as you rode backwards on a donkey through the town. Painted above the gruesome head is this poem: 

« Zum Klapperstein bin ich gennant,

Den bößen Mäulern wohl bekannt ;

Wer Lust zu Zank und Hader hat,

Der muß mich tragen durch die Stadt. »

Translation: 

• I'm known as the Klapperstein (gossip stone)
• Well known by evil tongues
• Whoever takes pleasure in arguing and quarreling
• Will carry me around the town

The church, Temple St. Etienne (St Stephen) was open today. Dave and Judy spent time looking at the stained glass windows. They were able to go up to the clerestory level  to look at them "up close and personal."  Dave was very impressed. 

The organ is not in the back of the church, nor is there a rose window.

The windows on either side of the central window are modern, made to replace the windows damaged in WWII

Close up of one of the new windows in the west end of the church

The organ is behind the altar

Panorama looking down from the clerestory. The windows in the clerestory of the nave are 14th century, saved from a previous church and built into this one.

One of the clerestory windows

They also found something  we missed last time: trompe l'oeil paintings on buildings. These are paintings that look real, but, in fact, are only two dimensional. Very cool.

Dave & Judy were looking for  a WC (public toilet)in the old town when they stumbled across these trompe l'oeil houses. Look closely - these are not real people in the windows and there are not any windows on this side of the house.

This trompe l'oeil is actually one house that is flat.

2026-05-15 Eguisheim in the Rain

 Friday, May 15  2026

Dan and Paulette have plans to visit a friend in the afternoon today. So, our group plan is to visit Eguisheim in the morning, and to eat a picnic lunch in Eguisheim. Oh, and see if we can find the Gruss tasting room which is the family winery of René's sister. Eguisheim is a short 15 minutes west of Logelheim, so the trip is short. Dan drove his own car so that they could leave after lunch for their visit. 

map - Logelheim to Eguisheim

We found parking in the same lot as before - where the town becomes pedestrian only.  Walking toward the Tourist Office, we passed the Gruss winery and made a note to visit it on our way out. 

The courtyard of the Gruss winery

Skies were partly blue with increasing clouds, but the temperature felt a bit warmer than yesterday. As might be expected on a holiday weekend, Eguisheim was crowded with all kinds of tourists, including a group of Americans on bikes. 

walking the ramparts of Eguisheim

As before, we took the circular tour around Eguisheim's former ramparts, whose defensive stone walls now form the back wall of  the houses on both sides of the road, many with shops on the ground floor. 

the route we followed

Judy at the beginning of the walking tour

While Dave and Judy searched for buildings that match the numbers on their guide, Paulette and I, gimpy as we are, only stopped for interesting things that caught our eye. 

One of the placards posted on a building along the route

This is a "little library" placed next to a bench shaded by a tree.

This sign below the little library says: The wings of knowledge....on the froth of words

This walk, despite the crowds, provided several lovely and peaceful moments where one is transported back to days in the 19th century. 

Paulette by some beautiful flowers

more flowers 

Window framing with carved writing. Heiliger Geis means Holy Ghost. The date seems  to be 1686. The other carved letters are likely the initials of the house owners when the house was built.

.

roses are blooming

Having circumnavigated the ramparts, we turned toward the center of town, the Place du Chateau. And it started to rain, sprinkles at first, then constant rain. Thank goodness for two cars because, while I was sheltering under the overhang of one of the stores on the square, Dan returned with 3 umbrellas from his car. Thank you, Dan. 

Place du Chateau 

While the others went into the church to look around, I watched the storks in their nests high on the church roof. After visiting the inside of the chapel, we walked back toward the cars. Our stop at Gruss winery was unsuccessful as it was now closed for lunch. We'll have to go another day.

Three storks on the church roof

By the time we got to the parking lot, the rain had stopped. We found dry spots under the eaves of the vintage wine press. Luckily the rain held off until we finished lunch. Then it started to really rain. We quickly packed up and put the scooter into the back of the car. Judy, Dave & I headed back to Logelheim. Dan & Paulette headed north for their visit. 

Lunch under the overhang of the wine press in the parking lot. Paulette, Judy, Dave

Dan, Paulette, Judy

Dave grilled pork tenderloin in the rain and Judy made a delicious zucchini stir fry for a late dinner. Another satisfying day.

As we 

2016-05-14 Riquewihr and lunch on the slopes of the Vosges

 Thursday May 14, 2026

We have lunch reservations for 2 pm at another Michelin restaurant Dan and Paulette had discovered on a previous visit. It is not far from Riquewihr, so we will stop here for a brief visit. But before we can go, we need some groceries. Dan and Dave headed into  Colmar only to find the grocery stores closed for Ascension. They finally found a Carrefour City that was open and were able to get most of the things on their list. That set our departure back about an hour. sigh. We were finally underway about noon.

The last time we were in Riquewihr, it was sunny and warm (aka shorts weather). Today is quite different. Cloudy skies and temps in the 50s. 

Did I mention it was cold? Lynn (in her new Strasbourg ski hat), Paulette, Judy, Dave

We parked in the same lot as last time, just a block from the Hotel de Ville entrance to the city. It's much busier today than last time we were here. It is Ascension weekend and schools and businesses are closed for the holiday. 

The streets were crowded with people

Once through the Hotel de Ville entrance, the main street of the old town stretches straight up the hill toward the vineyards that lie just outside the town. As one of the Plus Beaux Villages of France, Riquewihr has managed to maintain its 16th century appearance and medieval fortifications, including stretches of the double walled defenses of the medieval town. As evidenced by the vineyards surrounding the town, its wealth comes from producing wine. 

Notice the vineyards above and below this restaurant sign

Paulette at the city gate - The area between the two gates would have been a dry moat at one time, but now houses are built up against the walls

Outside the walls (now rear walls of houses) is a lovely park with path to walk around the outside of the ramparts

Once more, half-timbered houses line both sides of the main street (Rue du Général de Gaulle).

The Hotel de Ville gate

A lucky shot with hardly any people in the picture!

Paulette on Rue du Général de Gaulle

Some houses had carved timbers, often indicating the profession of the owner.

The nail-maker's house

Others had decorated windows that asked you to look twice. 

a very decorated house

At the far end of the street stood the Dolder, the northwest entry gate to the city. Once through the High Gate (la Porte Haute) you were outside the towns defensive perimeter.

Lynn, Paulette, Dave, & Judy in front of the Dolder tower

We didn't have time to circle the town by its rampart walls. We had to start a new adventure -getting to our lunch restaurant - which used to be a hermitage. That should give you a clue that this restaurant is a hidden gem, emphasis on HIDDEN.  

We headed west into the Vosges and really didn't need our GPS as there was only one narrow forest road with no markings leading up the 2000 feet to the auberge. Oh, and did I mention there were lots of hairpin turns in this road? Luckily we didn't meet very many cars going down as there were no shoulders and the drop off into the forested land was quite steep. We did have to pass several bicyclists (one from Jumbo Visma - according to his jersey) who were practicing their mountain climbs. 

The Auberge St Alexis is on the inventory of architectural heritage sites according to the French Ministry of Culture. Built in the 15th century, probably as a hunting lodge for local nobility, the chapel and house later became a hermitage and then a farm. The current restaurant is located in the half of the house that would have been the barn. 

We're here!

In front of the auberge - Judy, Lynn, Paulette

It would be a lovely site for lunch on the patio in warm, sunny weather.

Looking out from the patio

We arrived at 2, but in typical French fashion, our table could not be made available until the previous people left. One of the differences between French and American restaurants is that the French sit long at table, eating in courses, ending in a cup of coffee. They are never hurried and are only provided the bill when they ask for it. We started waiting outside but it was too cold so we were offered seats in a room set for a group with a small number of members. We were able to order drinks while we waited and we also ordered our food as the kitchen was closing in order to clean up and prepare for the dinner guests. 

Taking our lunch order on the terrace

We all ordered the 3-course menu which started with soup, then main course, and finally dessert. Dave and Dan ordered the choucroute garnie (sauerkraut with various meats). I ordered smoked duck with fries and Judy and Paulette ordered chicken. We were finally seated around 3 PM and quickly served the soup course.

Squash soup - served family style in a soup tureen

We also checked out the charming dinnerware, 

It is clear that many people hike up to the restaurant, have lunch, and then hike down again. Many hiking poles and backpacks were stewn around the floor and most were in hiking clothes. The tone was rather raucous, but became quieter as groups of people left. It was an entirely enjoyable lunch adventure. We too lingered over dessert and coffee, finally leaving at 4:30 to head home.

Once home, we were visited by René with a bottle of wine and the fixings for a fire in the fireplace. He built the fire, showing Dave & Dan just how to do it, then sat at table with us to chat and take a bit of wine. It turns out that the wine René shared came from his brother-in-law's winery in Eguisheim (a short distance from here). Next time we're in Eguisheim, we'll have to find the Gruss tasting room.

René and Dave pouring wine from the bottle René brought.

Dan, wine, and the fire

After René left, Dan was able to prepare his special meal of white asparagus  and smoked salmon, served with Muscat wine. Of course there were strawberries. Delicious, but none of us are used to eating dinner at 9. Although it is very French to do so.

Dan's beautiful presentation of his white asparagus

Muskat served in wine glasses that used to be typical of this region. Now they seem to be out of fashion.

We are constantly amazed by the lucky circumstances of our visits to France. It certainly helps to have good friends who have experience in this region. Some is dumb luck - like having René as a host. He has so many stories about this town and its people. Our welcome couldn't be warmer. Our adventures teach us so much about the French and their customs. We are certainly blessed.