Sunday, May 17, 2026
The sun is shining, no rain in the forecast, and it's in the 60s. So today we are heading into the Black Forest of Germany to visit an open air museum called Vogtsbauernhof.
This open air museum made a big impression on us when we were living in Germany in the 70s. Little did we know that this museum of country life in the Black Forest had only been open since 1964. At that time, it only had 3 Black Forest farmsteads and their outbuildings. The museum has grown and today there are many more buildings and many interactive displays that show how folks in the Black Forest lived and worked in the middle ages.
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| Vogtsbauernhof - 1612 |
The centerpiece and first building in the museum is the Vogtsbauernhof which still exists in its original location. Built in 1612, the last owners, a retired farmer and his wife, left the farm, the farmhouse, its outbuildings, and furnishings. Hermann Schilli, a professor and researcher specializing in Schwarzwald (Black Forest) houses. From this small beginning, examples of many of the old Black Forest style of houses were dismantled, brought to this location, and rebuilt. The museum is now 3 times the size it was when we visited it in the 70s. And it has restaurants, gift shop, and other essential tourist stops.
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| This volkswagen is wearing the typical Alsatian headdress - red is for single ladies; black is for married ladies. |
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| Vogtsbauernhof - This is such a peaceful place - despite the crowds of tourists. |
Today's village showcases 11 farms and houses, entirely furnished, along with outbuildings. These represent styles from the southern, middle, and northern parts of the Black Forest. The geography and the weather played a great part in how these houses were designed. and built Keeping out snow and wind was primary. Houses and farms took advantage of the steep slopes on which they were built to protect living quarters and make barns more accessible.
The oldest farm here is the 1599 Hippenseppenhof is an example of a mountainside home. Others date from the 16th-19th century.
We were most appreciative of the clever signage at each location. A 4-sided panel attached to a post could be rotated vertically to one of four languages, allowing for the same information in English as in German or French. (I forget the 4th language - possibly Spanish)
Besides the farms and houses, outbuildings like a bake oven, sawmill, grain mills, chapel, forge, and others necessary to be totally independent of towns (which were distant, and unreachable in the winter).
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| Chapel |
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| This outbuilding is a primitive sawmill |
The museum staff are available in some houses to ask questions, others are doing farm work - baking bread - or in this case flammenkuche, those flat pizza like bacon and cheese snacks. We of course bought one to share.
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| Judy finishing her flammenkuchen |
We saw a man making woven straw shoes, someone had washed and hung out the linen.
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| This contraption was used to boil water for doing the laundry. |
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| Laundry finished and hanging to dry |
Besides all this, we walked around pens of goats. Chickens roamed freely. And cows were pastured near one of the barns.
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| The goats were a hit with the children. They tried to feed them grasses through their fence. |
After 3 hours, we had absorbed as much as we could. While I couldn't go into any of the buildings, I could peek inside doorways and enjoy the grounds where gardens were flowering and kitchen gardens had been planted.
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| Living quarters of Falkenhof |
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| Judy in the loft of the Falkenhof house |
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| It is typical for Black Forest houses to have an external balcony that is covered by the roof. |
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| Kitchen garden |
Dave thought we had time to visit Triberg, a town he remembered was interesting. It's only 13 km away (a 15 minute drive). So off we went.
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| Notice the hairpin turns in the road to Triburg. It's built on some pretty high undulating hills. |
Parking found in the middle of town, Judy and Dave headed off to explore. Triberg is build high into the hillside, creating a lot of streets with steep inclines either up or down. We were parked with a view of the town and a nearby park, so I wasn't missing out on much.
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| Downtown Triburg is set up for tourists |
Triberg is famous for having the highest waterfall in Germany. It's also known as the cuckoo clock capitol of the world. Thus its city center is full of stores, like the House of 1000 cuckoo clocks.
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| You are warned to be careful if buying a cuckoo clock. Lower priced ones come from China. |
After a brief walk around town, Dave and Judy crossed the park and climbed the steps to our car. Another good day of adventures.
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| This city park is right below where the car was parked. I'm not sure what the carved totems with Alsatian headdresses are all about. |
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