June 5, 2019 Rained out in Reims

Highway message boards yesterday warned us about storms, but the sun was shining and the sky was only partly cloudy. But by 8 pm, the storms rolled in without thunder and lightning, but with drenching rains. The same is true this morning, although this afternoon we are supposed to get a break. However, storms are in the forecast for the whole day.

So we put on our raincoats and headed out to find a boulangerie just after 9. We parked right behind the cathedral whose yellow-brown stones have become dark brown in the rain. While I waited in the car, Dave walked to the boulangerie a half block away and then went looking for an épicerie (small local grocery store). In spite of the posted hours, the épicerie wasn't open. Typiquement Français. He didn't have much luck and we ate croissants and Capri Sun orange juice in the rain in the car. The rain slowed and we got out my chariot to go over to the church. But, after yesterday's cobblestones, the connections to the battery are again bent and the chariot stops abruptly every 5 yards as the battery loses contact with the motor. Most frustrating.

The elements were too much for me and I made Dave take me back to the hotel, where I'm now writing this. I will miss Reims, but Dave is now out wandering the streets in the drizzle. There should be photos later.

Dave came back with lunch items purchased from the épicerie which was now open. Baguette, ham, Bleu d'Auvergne for cheese and coffee brewed in our appartment-hotel coffee pot. Served on plates. (a rarity - we hardly ever had plates for our lunch, unless we were eating at home.) He's now trying to repair my battery once again. There will be words with the manufacturer when I get home.

Rain stopped for the time being, and Mr. Fix-It successful with his scooter repair, we headed toward the cathedral so I could see it. Reims is historically important as the church where Clovis, king of the Francs, was baptized (by Saint Remi) and most kings of France were crowned.

Oh, wow! Just Wow.  The statues are the first thing I noticed. Monumental statues.

Monumental church.

Another cathedral that soars to the sky.

Statues above the rose, between the two towers on the front of the church

The crowning of Mary

head of one of the saints

this statue was being held onto the church by elastic bands attached to the stone of the building

details from roof of chuch

This bell's for you, Clark

Its footprint is massive, but inside, slender columns support the roof over massive floor space in the nave and side aisles.

This young lady was the subject of a photo shoot, perhaps by a proud mama. 

Much stained glass was lost over the years, most recently in WWI when the Germans shelled the church and then burned it. (Reims was also near the Western Front in WWI)

This rose is intact

Close up of Rose window

Modern stained glass has replaced the missing windows. I'm not a fan of the abstract colors of this artist

but I really like the Chagall windows in the central ambulatory chapel which is also visible from the nave.

Chagall windows

close up of Chagall window - birth of Christ

Resurrection of Christ

We then followed a tourist office tour of the city. Unlike Bourges, this city doesn't seem to have an old center. Most of the buildings seem to be post 17th century or later. Like the Hôtel de Ville, 17-19th century. It was burned down in WWI and rebuilt.

Hôtel de Ville - town hall

bas-relief above the door to the Hôtel de Ville

It's a busy interesting town, with lots of busses, and a tram.

the purple tram contrasts with 19th century houses

We pass grand old apartment buildings along shopping streets. But the town doesn't speak to me. It's busy, but in a working sort of way. Of course, people in France need to work and earn a living. It's just that the town surrounding the cathedral doesn't match the cathedral setting. It's really not fair to hold Reims to such a fantasy of maintaining its ancient history of crowning the kings of France. It is and was an important city that has moved with the times.

Our AppartHotel was interesting. It is part of a larger complex of apartments with an unremarkable entrance (that is easily missed). The price is reasonable, the apartment a basic studio, but the bathroom is great, the bed is comfortable, and the kitchen is adequately equipped. I'd stay there again.

May 31, 2019 - Pernes-les-Fontaines and winetasting at Châteauneuf-du-Pape coop in Courthézon

We've finally found the wine coop for Châteauneuf-du-Pape. We were looking in the city of CNP (Châteauneuf-du-Pape) instead of the region. The coop is in a town called Courthézon - the next town over from Sarrians. How could we have waited so long?

But first, Chris, Ron, and Dave will hike around Pernes-les-Fontaines, a city we visited on a Saturday market day, long ago.

Leaving Pernes-les-Fontaines

A little chapel in the fields - still lovingly cared for

the chapel

Poppies are still in bloom - they have been since we arrived.

This hike was an easy stroll through vineyards and fields

Chris and Ron on the path

Cherries are starting to be in the markets. 

The river here is more of a canal.

Medieval entrance to the town

Ron and Chris on one of the bridges that cross the canal-river in Pernes-les-Fontaines

In the afternoon, we tasted wine at the coop in Courthézan and bought some wine to drink and to bring with to Brussels for Dan and Paulette. Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Yum.

This place was right under our noses. Next door to Sarrians - a 10 minute drive. How could we have missed it?

The sales floor is enticing.

See all the wines you can taste? We restrained ourselves. 

June 9, 2019 Father's Day in Brussels

This morning after a sunny breakfast of coffee, croissants and peaches, we attended church with Dan and Paulette.  The church is located in a neighborhood not far from the Dumas house simply in a building that is part of a neighborhood. It is a simple setting with an altar and rows of chairs set up in semi-circle around it.

Altar at Saint Esprit church

Today the small gathering of faithful was celebrating the dual holiday of Pentecost and Father's Day, but especially Pentecost. Their former priest, Father Phillip, was visiting from Lièges and performed the service. With Marc playing guitar and lots of songs, with Dan and Paulette reading parts, and a reading from Acts of the Pentecost story, we were all prepared for today's homily. Of course, the service was in French and I could understand and even sing the songs.  David, however, had little idea of what was happening, but was attentive and didn't fall asleep. Luckily, we stood often for parts of the service which I'm sure helped him stay awake.

Father Phillip's homily brought tears of hope to my eyes as he spoke animatedly and powerfully about how the Holy Spirit was given to unite all humanity in one community that cares about and for all the others. Color, gender, nationality, even different faiths should not separate us. Those who think Us First (He mentioned Britain, the conservative party of Belgium, and Trump) go against the Spirit given freely and out of love for all humanity. He shared that God loves us so much and believes that we are capable of living in love and harmony with respect for all people and for the natural world. He encouraged us to be engaged and without fear in living as the Spirit was given. Le souffle d'Esprit. The breath of the Holy Spirit. Very moving.

It is clear that this church is a community of friends who are engaged with helping each other and their communities, living in faith that we are one people of God. We met and visited with almost all who were at the service. From the little I've seen and the bits I've heard, this church is an example of
how Christianity is meant to live and act. I left feeling hopeful about the future. That's not easy these days of turmoil in so many countries. So I was very glad to have shared this service with Dan and Paulette.

When we got home about 12:30, it was time for final preparations for the Father's Day celebration. Within an hour, there were 13 adults and 7 children. Paulette's mother came too. At age 95, she still lives on her own with help from her two daughters who live near her. Her memory is unclouded and she beams with joy with her grandchildren and great grandchildren. 

The oldest and youngest at the party

3 generations of 4 - Jonathan is missing here.

The weather was warm, so we were able to have appetizers outside.

A father and his son

Granny and her Granddaughter

There was a Father's Day gift for Dan (footprints of his 4 adult children - to go with the handprints of the 4 adult children they gave to their mother for Mother's Day). An appropriately silly poem was needed to deliver the gift (still wet from the freshly painted footprints). Dan and Paulette will need to find an appropriate wall to display their new masterpieces.

All the fathers

And since it is also David's birthday, a Heineken bottle-shaped piñata had been fashioned by Maeli (David's niece) which took many blows to open and pour out its candy, confetti and streamers. Luckily this happened in the backyard and was easily cleaned up. 

Birthday boy and his gift

Not a good place for Lucy to sit - 

Then in for dinner - Waterzooi - a Belgian chicken stew that was so full of flavor - and that took Dan hours in the morning to prepare with lots of chopping of vegetables. Once again, we are amazed at Dan's skill. He wasn't quite satisfied with the sauce, so we volunteered to come back again so he could try again.

It has been such a joy to get to know these grown children whom we only met once in 1987, when they were tiny. We know their progress through our exchange of Christmas letters, but talking in person is so much more fun.

It's now late afternoon, everyone's gone, dishes are done and we've played a couple of games of Qwixx, a fast-moving dice game. I need to look for this as I think it looks like a fun game to add to our collection.

It's hard to believe our adventures in Europe are ending. We have one castle left on the itinerary tomorrow before heading back to Paris where we will turn in our car, re-pack suitcases, and straggle to the airport on Tuesday morning.

As usual, we've learned so much - from politics to Flemish words. We've increased our appreciation of the diversity among us - different ways to think and experience the world. But at the same time, everyone we've met has the same basic needs and goals. Home, family, jobs, safety, health, and respect are part of everyone's list. We are grateful that we have had the opportunity to learn these things first hand. We hope our health will allow us another opportunity in the future.

Today has been a perfect way to end our trip - a reminder that friendship is worth pursuing across the world.

June 7, 2019 - Belgian chocolates and grandchild fixes

Our day today, Friday, is simple. A trip to a chocolate factory (not Charley's) and then visiting Jonathan to care for Élinor at their home. This way I will get a grandma fix. Being in France for so long means not seeing my grandchildren who light my life. We'll be home soon, so this will have to suffice for now.

First the chocolate factory, Neuhaus.

 It's not Paulette's favorite (Léonidas is), but it is near the house AND you can taste as much chocolate as you want. Better than Charley and the Chocolate Factory. But it's better not to be like Augustus Gloop and fall into the river of chocolate.

I will admit it would be easy to do. I tried 5 or 6 different kinds while David and Dan each ate about a dozen pieces. We watched one man put 6 kilos (about 13 pounds) of chocolates in the back of his car. I hope it was needed for a wedding.

each box is 1 kg and samples of each type of chocolate are out for tasting!

We returned home for lunch, again beautifully prepared by Dan and Paulette.

Dan and Paulette's house

I swear Dan could be a chef in the finest restaurant. He is such a talented cook!

lunch -avocado and shrimp salad  (the little ones like we had last night)

In the afternoon we went to Jonathan and Maëlle's house. They have a lovely new home in a building that has 7 apartments. We watched Élinor while Jonathon corrected papers (It's end of term here and Jonathan, a chemistry teacher, is monitoring exams and must of course correct and grade them all.) We were happy for the time with Élinor.

Paulette and Élinor

They live in a Habitat-Groupé (shared housing) project where like-minded families agree to share in the purchase and maintenance of the house. They manage affairs by meeting every 2 weeks to decide things that must be done. Then each person signs up to help as they are able. They track when they are gone via a shared calendar in the entry. And they have set aside larger rooms that can be used for various purposes from extra guests to parties. The owners all have a similar philosophy and dream about living lightly on the planet. It's really refreshing to see such cooperation, although I suspect it may not be so rare here where people seem to pay attention to the ecology and shared nature of the spaces.

For dinner we were treated to a dish I've never had - pork cheeks.

Joues de porc & pommes de terre vapeur 

wines from Dan's cellar thoughtfully chosen for each course.

They are a cut of meat that needs slow, long cooking in a beautiful dark gravy sauce, served with pommes de terre vapeur (fancy French name for boiled potatoes). Really delicious.

Once again, we sat long at table with so much to talk about. We are never at a loss for words to share with good friends and it is a wonderfully warm feeling to deepen our friendship in these conversations.