June 5, 2019 Rained out in Reims

Highway message boards yesterday warned us about storms, but the sun was shining and the sky was only partly cloudy. But by 8 pm, the storms rolled in without thunder and lightning, but with drenching rains. The same is true this morning, although this afternoon we are supposed to get a break. However, storms are in the forecast for the whole day.

So we put on our raincoats and headed out to find a boulangerie just after 9. We parked right behind the cathedral whose yellow-brown stones have become dark brown in the rain. While I waited in the car, Dave walked to the boulangerie a half block away and then went looking for an épicerie (small local grocery store). In spite of the posted hours, the épicerie wasn't open. Typiquement Français. He didn't have much luck and we ate croissants and Capri Sun orange juice in the rain in the car. The rain slowed and we got out my chariot to go over to the church. But, after yesterday's cobblestones, the connections to the battery are again bent and the chariot stops abruptly every 5 yards as the battery loses contact with the motor. Most frustrating.

The elements were too much for me and I made Dave take me back to the hotel, where I'm now writing this. I will miss Reims, but Dave is now out wandering the streets in the drizzle. There should be photos later.

Dave came back with lunch items purchased from the épicerie which was now open. Baguette, ham, Bleu d'Auvergne for cheese and coffee brewed in our appartment-hotel coffee pot. Served on plates. (a rarity - we hardly ever had plates for our lunch, unless we were eating at home.) He's now trying to repair my battery once again. There will be words with the manufacturer when I get home.

Rain stopped for the time being, and Mr. Fix-It successful with his scooter repair, we headed toward the cathedral so I could see it. Reims is historically important as the church where Clovis, king of the Francs, was baptized (by Saint Remi) and most kings of France were crowned.

Oh, wow! Just Wow.  The statues are the first thing I noticed. Monumental statues.

Monumental church.

Another cathedral that soars to the sky.

Statues above the rose, between the two towers on the front of the church

The crowning of Mary

head of one of the saints

this statue was being held onto the church by elastic bands attached to the stone of the building

details from roof of chuch

This bell's for you, Clark

Its footprint is massive, but inside, slender columns support the roof over massive floor space in the nave and side aisles.

This young lady was the subject of a photo shoot, perhaps by a proud mama. 

Much stained glass was lost over the years, most recently in WWI when the Germans shelled the church and then burned it. (Reims was also near the Western Front in WWI)

This rose is intact

Close up of Rose window

Modern stained glass has replaced the missing windows. I'm not a fan of the abstract colors of this artist

but I really like the Chagall windows in the central ambulatory chapel which is also visible from the nave.

Chagall windows

close up of Chagall window - birth of Christ

Resurrection of Christ

We then followed a tourist office tour of the city. Unlike Bourges, this city doesn't seem to have an old center. Most of the buildings seem to be post 17th century or later. Like the Hôtel de Ville, 17-19th century. It was burned down in WWI and rebuilt.

Hôtel de Ville - town hall

bas-relief above the door to the Hôtel de Ville

It's a busy interesting town, with lots of busses, and a tram.

the purple tram contrasts with 19th century houses

We pass grand old apartment buildings along shopping streets. But the town doesn't speak to me. It's busy, but in a working sort of way. Of course, people in France need to work and earn a living. It's just that the town surrounding the cathedral doesn't match the cathedral setting. It's really not fair to hold Reims to such a fantasy of maintaining its ancient history of crowning the kings of France. It is and was an important city that has moved with the times.

Our AppartHotel was interesting. It is part of a larger complex of apartments with an unremarkable entrance (that is easily missed). The price is reasonable, the apartment a basic studio, but the bathroom is great, the bed is comfortable, and the kitchen is adequately equipped. I'd stay there again.