Today Toulouse

 April 30, 2024

The weather is still cold, grey, with a chance of rain. So Dave has put together a walking tour of Toulouse, only a bit more than an hour from Le Cazal.

Toulouse is the 4th largest city in France, with a population of over 500,000. It is known for its aerospace engineering, home of the Airbus. It has a reputation as a young and vibrant city, mostly due to the University of Toulouse (founded in 1229). The city center sits between the Garonne River and the Canal du Midi, both hubs of transport from the middle ages to modern times. It is known as the "pink city" because of the brick used in building much of the early town. (There's no limestone in the area for building, but there is lots of clay.) 

the Capitole

The very center of the city is Place du Capitol, a large square in front of the city hall, le Capitol. While there is a market every day on this square, today's is small. Inside the Capitol, one can visit the "Salle des Illustres," a highly decorated hall leading to government meeting rooms. 

Clark and Dale - an illustrious duo for sure

But first Dave leads us to Place Victor Hugo where there is an indoor market with permanent vendor stalls. The six of us split up to wander the market as interested. It is a marvel of good food from local vendors, although the presentation is not what you'd see in the US.

splitting up

one of several butchers

There are 4 aisles with vendors on each side.

cheese stall  yum

one of several butcher shops

whole rabbit

whole chickens often come with heads and feet still attached

It's not all shopping. There's time to hang out with friends and have a beer, or wine, or aperitif.

fruits and vegetables

spices

On our way to the basilica. Notice all the rental bikes. Using a car in the city center is not to be recommended! Motorcycles or bikes are the way to go and much used.

Our next stop is St Sernin Basilica, built to honor Saturnin, the first bishop of Toulouse, martyred in 250 AD after being dragged through the streets by a sacrificial bull. . (Sernin is Occitan for Saturnin.) While a basilica had been built over his grave around 500 AD, his martyrdom made the basilica a popular visit for pilgrims. In the 11th century, the present basilica was built and soon became a stop on the route of Saint Jacques of Compostela. It is rich in relics and continues to welcome pilgrims on the road to Compostela. We were treated to someone playing the organ while we visited, adding to the drama of the basilica, the largest Romanesque church left in the world.

St Sernin basilica, from the side

the nave has wide aisles on either side of the main nave

the organ loft and main entrance to the church

the ambulatory (aisle around and behind the chancel) is full of reliquaries for various saints

chapel in the ambulatory

high altar in the chancel

A walk down Rue du Taur (street of the bull - guess what that refers to) where we found the église (church) du Taur closed for renovation. We ate lunch on a stone bench at the Capitole, Dave and Dale bought t-shirts, then we made our way to the Convent of the Jacobins. 

In 1215, in Toulouse, Dominic of Osma founded the Order of Preachers, now known as the Dominican Order. It was they who began the University of Toulouse in 1229. They are known as teachers and educators. In the 14th century, the relics of St Thomas Aquinas were given to the this church, creating a pilgrimage site. One can visit the brothers living quarters for 12 Euros each, but we only visited the church, large and impressive; I expect the cloister and living quarters of the monks would be worth a visit, but not today. My battery is dangerously near to running out, so it's time to head back to the car. 

Back to the parking ramp, located under the Capitole square. A good feature was the public toilets. Not so good was the need to take 2 elevators - both with impossible exits for the scooter and bad signage - to get to and from our car. But we made it. Which was easier than finding the parking ramp entrance in the first place. We missed the small entrance sign on arriving this morning and ended up driving on various one way and pedestrian streets for half an hour before getting back to the entrance to the underground parking. Every day is an adventure and something new learned. 

As we drove home, the skies became lighter. We hope tomorrow brings nicer weather, but we plan to visit local small villages, so we should be ok.