2016-05-14 Riquewihr and lunch on the slopes of the Vosges

 May 14, 2026

We have lunch reservations for 2 pm at another Michelin restaurant Dan and Paulette had discovered on a previous visit. It is not far from Riquewihr, so we will stop here for a brief visit. The last time we were in Riquewihr, it was sunny and warm (aka shorts weather). Today is quite different. Cloudy skies and temps in the 50s. 

Did I mention it was cold? Lynn (in her new Strasbourg ski hat), Paulette, Judy, Dave

We parked in the same lot as last time, just a block from the Hotel de Ville entrance to the city. It's much busier today than last time we were here. It is Ascension weekend and schools and businesses are closed for the holiday. 

The streets were crowded with people

Once through the Hotel de Ville entrance, the main street of the old town stretches straight up the hill toward the vineyards that lie just outside the town. As one of the Plus Beaux Villages of France, Riquewihr has managed to maintain its 16th century appearance and medieval fortifications, including stretches of the double walled defenses of the medieval town. As evidenced by the vineyards surrounding the town, its wealth comes from producing wine. 

Notice the vineyards above and below this restaurant sign

Paulette at the city gate - The area between the two gates would have been a dry moat at one time, but now houses are built up against the walls

Outside the walls (now rear walls of houses) is a lovely park with path to walk around the outside of the ramparts

Once more, half-timbered houses line both sides of the main street (Rue du Général de Gaulle).

The Hotel de Ville gate

A lucky shot with hardly any people in the picture!

Paulette on Rue du Général de Gaulle

Some houses had carved timbers, often indicating the profession of the owner.

The nail-maker's house

Others had decorated windows that asked you to look twice. 

a very decorated house

At the far end of the street stood the Dolder, the northwest entry gate to the city. Once through the High Gate (la Porte Haute) you were outside the towns defensive perimeter.

Lynn, Paulette, Dave, & Judy in front of the Dolder tower

We didn't have time to circle the town by its rampart walls. We had to start a new adventure -getting to our lunch restaurant - which used to be a hermitage. That should give you a clue that this restaurant is a hidden gem, emphasis on HIDDEN.  

We headed west into the Vosges and really didn't need our GPS as there was only one narrow forest road with no markings leading up the 2000 feet to the auberge. Oh, and did I mention there were lots of hairpin turns in this road? Luckily we didn't meet very many cars going down as there were no shoulders and the drop off into the forested land was quite steep. We did have to pass several bicyclists (one from Jumbo Visma - according to his jersey) who were practicing their mountain climbs. 

The Auberge St Alexis is on the inventory of architectural heritage sites according to the French Ministry of Culture. Built in the 15th century, probably as a hunting lodge for local nobility, the chapel and house later became a hermitage and then a farm. The current restaurant is located in the half of the house that would have been the barn. 

We're here!

In front of the auberge - Judy, Lynn, Paulette

It would be a lovely site for lunch on the patio in warm, sunny weather.

Looking out from the patio

We arrived at 2, but in typical French fashion, our table could not be made available until the previous people left. One of the differences between French and American restaurants is that the French sit long at table, eating in courses, ending in a cup of coffee. They are never hurried and are only provided the bill when they ask for it. We started waiting outside but it was too cold so we were offered seats in a room set for a group with a small number of members. We were able to order drinks while we waited and we also ordered our food as the kitchen was closing in order to clean up and prepare for the dinner guests. 

Taking our lunch order on the terrace

We all ordered the 3-course menu which started with soup, then main course, and finally dessert. Dave and Dan ordered the choucroute garnie (sauerkraut with various meats). I ordered smoked duck with fries and Judy and Paulette ordered chicken. We were finally seated around 3 PM and quickly served the soup course.

Squash soup - served family style in a soup tureen

We also checked out the charming dinnerware, 

It is clear that many people hike up to the restaurant, have lunch, and then hike down again. Many hiking poles and backpacks were stewn around the floor and most were in hiking clothes. The tone was rather raucous, but became quieter as groups of people left. It was an entirely enjoyable lunch adventure. We too lingered over dessert and coffee, finally leaving at 4:30 to head home.

Once home, we were visited by René with a bottle of wine and the fixings for a fire in the fireplace. He build the fire, showing Dave & Dan just how to do it, then sat at table with us to chat and take a bit of wine. It turns out that the wine René shared came from his brother-in-law's winery in Eguisheim (a short distance from here). Next time we're in Eguisheim, we'll have to find the Gruss tasting room.

René and Dave pouring wine from the bottle René brought.

Dan, wine, and the fire

After René left, Dan was able to prepare his special meal of white asparagus  and smoked salmon, served with Muscat wine. Of course there were strawberries. Delicious, but none of us are used to eating dinner at 9. Although it is very French to do so.

Dan's beautiful presentation of his white asparagus

Muskat served in wine glasses that used to be typical of this region. Now they seem to be out of fashion.

We are constantly amazed by the lucky circumstances of our visits to France. It certainly helps to have good friends who have experience in this region. Some is dumb luck - like having René as a host. He has so many stories about this town and its people. Our welcome couldn't be warmer. Our adventures teach us so much about the French and their customs. We are certainly blessed.