Monday, May 2, 2022 - Fontenay Abbey & Château Bussy-Rambutin

 Another sunny day, 60 degrees. Today we're headed to Fontenay Abbey - a critically important Cistercean abbey - to learn about this sect of followers of St. Benedict. In our usual style, we're on the road by about 10 am after our croissants and scrambled eggs. 

I wish I could convey the peace and calm that we experience as we drive the small roads in Burgundy. The scenery is the same and yet always changing. We see fields separated by boxwood hedges, dotted with yellow and white flowers in the pastures. Cows in some, sheep in others.

On the way to Fontenay, an old farm near Pouillenay

Some fields plowed and ready for crops, others planted. The hilltops that undulate in this landscape are generally wooded whose trees are the bright green of spring leaves. Small villages every few miles, with stone buildings that look as old as the earth. 

Maybe not as old as the earth, but 14th century, privately owned, Château de Posanges

fields for grazing cattle separated by hedges of boxwood. Châteauneuf in the back.

Thus, after an hour's drive through the countryside, we are well prepared to enter the quiet that is Fontenay Abbey. 

panorama of Fontenay Abbey complex

In the 12th century, some monks wished to reform monastic life to more closely follow St. Benedict's rule of a life of poverty, based on self-sufficiency and solitude. Fontenay was founded in 1118 by St. Bernard just 20 years after the founding of the Cistercian order in Citeaux just 80 miles away. The community owned a large estate that was farmed by the monks, providing for all their needs. The main activities of a Cistercian monk were prayer and work. 

They kept themselves separated and isolated from the lay community. At its height, more than 200 monks lived an austere life at Fontenay, sleeping in a common (unheated) dormitory on straw pallets on the floor. 

monks' dormitory (Clark Hunsinger photo)

A stairway led directly to the church to which they were called multiple times a day. 

stairs from church to monks' dormitory

The church was likewise austere in its architecture as decorations were seen as a distraction. No stained glass, no choir stalls, no side chapels. Yet it is impressive by its size and restraint. 

no stained glass and only the statue of Madonna graces the transcept

View from nave to altar

Exterior of the church has no ornamentation

The same is true of the cloister and chapter room. Simple, practical spaces, with no decoration. 

Chapter room where the monks met about abbey business

cloister

There is one room in the whole complex of buildings that is heated - by two fireplaces  no less - the califactorium.

the califactorium

A door from this room opened to a stairway to the dormitory, so presumably some heat reached the sleeping monks in the cold months of the year. One can hope at least. 

One of the most impressive buildings was the forge. Throughout the open spaces there were fountains and a trout basin, and small waterfalls.

fountain at the back of the property

 It is believed that the monks of Fontenay invented the first hydraulic hammer that was run via a waterwheel. It was used to forge iron implements which were sold to provide income for the community. The monks also mined the iron ore used in the forge. It is thought Fontenay was one of the earliest metallurgic plants in Europe. 

reconstructed water wheel

hydraulic hammer, run by water wheel

iron forge

Starting in the 16th century, abbots were no longer elected by the monks, but were appointed by the king (whose interests were more monetary than spiritual). Fontenay, like all Cistercian abbeys fell into decline as profits became more important than spirituality. In the French Revolution, the abbey was sold as state property and purchased in 1820 by Elie Montgolfier (think hot air balloon descendant) who turned the property into a paper mill. Purchased in 1906 by Edward Aynard, the abbey was lovingly restored to its former glory, earning it a designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is still privately owned by the Aynard family.

Looking around the peaceful grounds, it is hard to imagine the hustle and bustle of 200 monks at work in the various abbey industries, tending gardens, moving supplies, working in the forge or in the fields. These men were scientists, cooks, nurses, agriculturalists, and learned in books. They lived simple lives, light on the earth, taking only what they needed to survive. A good reminder to us all. 

This beautiful plane tree was planted in 1780. 

A quick look in the bookshop (I found a lovely book of classic French cuisine.), a bathroom stop and it's time to find a place for lunch. But first - here's a look a a pollarded plane tree that is beginning to leaf out. It was likely pollarded a year or two ago. 

looking straight up under the tree. All these new branches will give lots of shade when the leaves are out in full.

this is the tree I was standing under. Not pretty, but will give lots of shade in just a few weeks. 

Just a few kilometers down the road there is a picnic pull off so we ate our sandwiches and chips at a sunny picnic table. As it's only 1:20, we have time for another adventure. Dave suggests the château Bussy-Rabutin just a few miles away. This is a place we've never heard of before. But it's near, it's a château, and it's a beautiful day.

Talk about changing gears! We were about to meet a real character. I can imagine him with a twinkle in his eye as he recited satiric couplets. Meet Roger de Bussy-Rabutin and his manor house. 

Roger de Bussy Rabutin

Clark in front of the Château

The deep gravel that fills the courtyard and paths around the château does not work well for the scooter and more than once Dave had to push like crazy to get the scooter to move. 

This 14th century manor house was purchased in 1602 by the Rabutin family. Their grandson, Roger, had a storied career of 30 years in the military, leading his first regiment at age 16. He was a socialite and participated in the courtly life of King Louis XIV's entourage. He was a witty writer and loved to write satiric verse, especially poking fun at the love affairs of the court. When he mocked the king's affair with Marie Mancine, he was exiled back to his estate in Burgundy. On another occasion he was imprisoned in the Bastille for a year. He wrote a satiric novel called "Histoire amoureuse des Gaules" (Love story of the Gauls) whose characters were thinly disguised versions of the courtiers at Louis XIV's court. Passed around among friends, someone had the book printed and distributed to the Court, earning Roger permanent banishment from the court. 

He spent his years in exile decorating his chateau with more than 300 paintings or copies of paintings of friends, relatives, and historical figures. 

portrait of Ben Franklin who lived in France for many years

inside one of the towers

The Château de Bussy-Rabutin has received a large grant from the French government for restoration works. Thus one wing is completely closed off as a work zone. 

new tiles for an old roof

But once inside, the presentation of the story of Roger de Bussy-Rabutin was excellently done via multi-media in multiple languages (including sign language). You really felt like you got to know this multi-talented rogue who would not be silenced. 

Besides the paintings which cover every square inch of the walls, there are Easter decorations created by a local artist. The theme for Easter this year was fairy tales.

table inside the château, decorated for Easter

Outside I spotted two more Easter scenes - a very woodsy bed with spinning wheel beside it for "Belle au bois dormant" (Sleeping Beauty) and Hansel and Gretel. 

Hansel and Gretel

Hansel and Gretel 

Time to head home for apéros and dinner - homemade soup tonight. Bye-bye Bussy-Rabutin.

Bussy-Rabutin