The retired traveller: 2026-05-19 Route des Vins

May 19, 2026

The first goal of the day is grocery shopping - right after breakfast. The last few chores - making beds, sweeping floors, etc need to be done in preparation for Chris, Ron, and Mad's arrival tonight. By the time all this was accomplished, it was lunch. So we had a quick lunch at home

The bottle collection since Clark left.

The day promised to be warm and sunny, as we headed out to follow the part of the Route du Vin that is near us. We'll travel from Turckheim to Pfaffenheim or as far as we get before returning home for dinner. The total distance is only 15 km, but there are 9 towns along the way, each one within site of the previous town.

Our first stop was Turckheim. We drove right through the south gate and parked next to the Hotel de Ville. There were no tourists in town today, just the way we like it. Dave and Judy did a quick explore of this area and then we drove along the Grande Rue and out the west entrance.

Turckheim still has a night watchman from spring through fall, Each night he carries a lamp and halberd. He stops at each corner and sings a warning to take care of the fireplace and the candle. (To prevent fire.

The next town along the route was Wintzenheim just 3 km away. From here a road winds up above the town to the Chateau de Hohlandsburg, but that is not part of our tour today. We drove through the town, once more charmed by its half-timbered homes and plentiful wineries. The current town hall was once the manor house of the Knights of St. John

Wintzenheim Town Hall

The next city was Wettolsheim which claims to be the birthplace of Alsatian vine growing thanks to the Roman occupation of the 3rd century. It does sit in the middle of a lot of vines. Driving along this wine route gives one a new appreciation for the scale and breadth of wine-making in this region. As if the country side as far as the eye can see isn't enough, driving through each of these small villages invariably has many vintners inviting you into their tasting rooms. While growing grapes and making wine is a labor-intensive job, it's clear that it provides a comfortable living for those engaged in wine-making.

Vineyards between Wettolsheim and Eguisheim

Equisheim is the next town on the tour. We have visited this village a couple of times. It has a sign-posted walking tour around the circular double defensive walls. But today, we will not visit the town. We are looking for Gruss winery.

Right on the main street, Gruss winery was easy to find

Dave and Judy were able to explore the cave on their own.

gate at Gruss winery - can you see the grapes and grape leaves?

Arriving after the lunch hour closing (12-2 pm), we walked into the courtyard and through the doors of a modern tasting room. My French was inadequate for explaining that our host's sister married the owner of this winery. But she spoke good English and figured out from the names René and Dominique who I was talking about. The wines were very good and we bought 6 bottles.

Back into the car, our next wine village was Husseren-les-Chateaux. This village is the highest of the Alsace wine villages (about 1300 feet). Husseren-les-Chateaux started as a collection of huts that housed the craftsmen building the 3 chateaux that sit further up the slope from Husseren. The village was originally named Hausern (German for "houses") which morphed into Husseren. This small village of 400 people proudly promotes its wine-growers.

Husseren-les-chateaux with the 3 chateaux on top of the hill

Along the road between Husseren and Gueberswihr

In Gueberswihr, we made a brief stop at the Eglise St Pantaleon in the center of town

This Romanesque church, built of the local pink sandstone, has a 12th century bell tower. The church was enlarged in the 19th century to accommodate the increasing population of Gueberswihr.