Monday, May 23, 2022 - A Plus Beau Village (Rocheport-en-Terre) and the Neighboring Town of Questembert

 Let's begin with a word about names here in Brittany. This part of France is unique in that it was settled by Celts from Great Britain who were escaping the invading Anglo-Saxons in the 4th-5th centuries. They remained independent of both France and the Norman conquests until the late 15th century when Anne of Brittany married successively 2 kings of France (Charles VIII and Louis XII). She was 14 when she married Charles who died in an accident in 1498. At age 21, in 1499, she married Charles cousin and heir to the throne, Louis XII. That independence kept alive the Breton language and cultural heritage. Today, of course, everyone speaks French, but their Breton heritage and language continue to be important. The French suppressed teaching of Breton in schools until recently, so only a few hundred thousand people still speak Breton. That said, names of towns often have strange sounding names and all public signs are written in French and Breton. There is no hope of pronouncing anything correctly in Breton as we have no idea what the letters sound like or what the strangely spelled words mean. I would love to learn something about the language, but that's not likely to happen. (sigh) 

Note the Breton spelling of Rochefort below the French

OK, that's off my back. Today we are visiting Rochefort-en-Terre, a most beautiful village. It was sunny as we started but threatens rain this afternoon. Apparently, the tourists got wind of this charming town because finding a parking place requires 2 spins  around outside the medieval district. We found a spot on the road, near the church, so that's where we started. 

Notre-Dame de la Tranchaye is the name of the church, but I don't have a clue about the significance of la Tranchaye. I'm sure it means something. It seems odd that the church is outside the fortified area of the city, but a legend explains the location. Presumably, the statue of Mary feeding the infant Jesus was found in the 12th century inside a tree trunk. It supposedly was placed there 200 years earlier by someone who hid it in the tree so that it could not be destroyed by Viking marauders who were ravaging the area. The church was built where the discovery was made. 

In new clothes, this claims to be the statue found in the tree, but there's supposed to be a baby and there isn't one that I can see. Fraud? Replacement? Broken? Don't know.

This banner features Mary in the center and is used for processionals

side entrance to the church with carved calvary in front

the church has been added to over the centuries. The fortified tower from 1125 is easy to see here.

The inside of this church is unusual and intriguing. The fortified tower over the crossing of nave and transept is what remains of the chapel of 1125. 

looking back from the crossing

In 1533, the flamboyant gothic north face was completed. (The inscription over the portal says: En l’an 1533 fut cette œuvre parfaite. - translated it says: In the year 1533 this work was perfect.)

Parts of the church were restored in the second half of the 19th century and in the 1920s, two large stained glass windows were installed. Nevertheless, this church has all the feelings of reverence and faith along with its long history. 

This 20th century window shows the story of finding the statue of Mary in the tree

We headed up to the old town center - and I mean UP - I needed auxiliary power from Dave pushing to keep the scooter moving. 

Dave providing extra horsepower up the hill - hmmm - it doesn't look so steep in Clark's photo

Rochefort gets its name from roche - rock and fort - fortified or strong. The town grew up around a 12th century castle on a rocky promontory. The castle was destroyed 3 times, the last time in a peasant revolt in 1793. All that remains is one wall, a chapel and the fortified ramparts. 

castle gate- Clark Hunsinger photo

chapel - Clark Hunsinger

castle gate and wall - Clark Hunsinger photo

the chapel has an odd turret next to it - but on closer inspection, the chapel is built onto the defensive wall.

The castle grounds are a public park now with lovely views over the surrounding landscape.

In 1907 the American painter Alfred Klots (That's OK, I don't know who he is either.) bought the property and restored the former stables to luxury apartments and artist workspaces. Today, the building is still used for art space and there is an art museum called the Naia (which we didn't visit). 

Former stables turned into artist residences by Alfred Klots

Below the castle, the medieval village spreads out along a couple of streets and some lovely plazas. 

We ate lunch in Place de Puits, surrounded by half-timbered houses. Janis and I noted that the timbers of many buildings were painted various bright colors. We'd never seen that before. 

Lynn and Janis waiting for lunch in Place des Puits (puit = well)

While eating lunch, I spied a bakery and suggested we get dessert and quickly as the young man was closing for lunch. So Janis and I went over and chose apple Kouign-Amann (pronounced koo-WEEN-ah-man) - part sticky bun - part sugared croissant. The name comes from the Breton Kouign - cake and Amann - butter. (So now we know one word in Breton and it looks and tastes delicious.) What a fabulous ending to our lunch. 

the boulangerie - Clark Hunsinger photo

After lunch we explored the next "place" - Place aux Halles - Market square. The old covered market was built in a U-shape with a second story. Today, the tourist office and other offices have been built in what had been open spaces for market stalls. 

The former U-shaped covered market now houses the tourist bureau and some other shops.

We were ready to leave by mid-afternoon. These photos are some of the pretty or cool things we saw in our wanderings.

path up to the ruined castle - Lynn, Janis, Clark

valerian, flowers that grow out of the rocks everywhere. 

a hidden doorway

sign for a creperie restaurant on the Place des Puits

Dave suggested we check out another town near-by on the way home. Questemberg doesn't have a plus beau village designation, but it does have an 16th century covered market and a few old buildings. It shouldn't take too long to explore, it's only got 7,000 residents.

We found a parking place easily and headed to the tourist bureau for maps. And there is was, right across the street from the covered market, claiming to be the oldest building in town. 

Les Halles is still used for weekly markets as well as concerts and other municipal gatherings

15th century house now houses the Office de Tourisme, right across the street from Les Halles

interior of Les Halles

We checked out the "hotel" Belmont (hotel in French is an individual home, usually of some rich guy) with an unusual tower in its backyard. 

back yard of the Belmont Hotel

The tower has an unusual shaped roof

The 15th century Chapelle Saint-Michel and its graveyard were the last stop. 

I can't get enough of old buildings, still in use, covered in flowers to soften the stone. So lucky to see them. Then home for apéros and dinner.