Monday, June 27, 2022

Sunday, June 26, 2022 - Home

 Our 4 am wake-up felt mighty early, but getting out of the hotel was easy as everything was basically packed the night before. The train station was right outside the the hotel, so not too far to drag the luggage. But once at the airport (Charles De Gaulle) we had to walk the length of terminal 2 to find our check in for British Air's flight to London. We were there at 5 am and the line was out the door. grrr...

Once we got to the front of the line, they didn't know how to handle my scooter. Decision was finally made to check the scooter through to Chicago and use a wheelchair. Oh and we still had to pay for our bags, but they checked our carry on luggage for free. Go figure, but it was nice to not have to humph the backpacks. 

Plane was on time taking off and landing and we immediately learned how huge Heathrow Airport is. We arrived at terminal 5 and our next flight was out of terminal 3. Not abnormal for a large airport. However, this required taking a bus for what seemed like a 10 mile trip, mostly in circles, and much of it underground. We were glad that the scooter was checked through as it would have been really difficult to get the scooter on the bus. 

But the next problem got us a little worried about handicapped help. Someone had gotten us to the bus in terminal 5, but in terminal 3, there was a little assistance booth and a couple of chairs. Everyone else disappeared up an escalator. There was a non-speaking person manning this booth who, through gestures, got us to show him our next boarding pass. He could clearly hear and understand us, just couldn't speak. I thought that was very cool and he was clearly competent as he pulled up screens on his computer and requested a  wheelchair. The next part was pretty humorous though. After about 10 minutes, a young lady wheeling an empty chair wandered slowly into our hallway and asked for a Susan somebody. She was clearly not in a hurry. As there was no one else sitting with us, she eventually slowly ambled back the way she came. A couple of minutes later, the handicapped assistant wrote a note on a scrap paper and showed it to me. It said: "I changed her assignment." Sure enough, a few minutes later, the young lady re-appeared, this time with my name on her mini-ipad. So off we went.

After 5 or 10 minutes of negotiating long empty hall ways and duty-free shops, we were finally ushered into a "wheel-chair assistance waiting room. This room was bustling with about 50 seats and a booth up front which had several people buzzing about it. This was a special waiting room for handicapped travelers whose plane had not yet been assigned a gate. Since our flight didn't leave until 12:15 and it was now about 8:30, we had hours to spend here, which would have been ok, except for the constant state of chaos.

The idea was a very clever one. Bringing all people needing assistance into one common space where a manager could assign assistants to move people at the appropriate times. They even had special carts that carried 3 wheelchair people in a single file row at one time. But the place was noisy, with the manager calling out flights that had just posted their gates and names of people for whom they were responsible for transporting to those gates. And people were constantly at the manager's desk asking if their flight had been called. And of course, the comings and goings of people with limited mobility. I think I have a solution to all of this chaos. (I had 3 hours to think about it.) If they used a system of those handheld monitors that restaurants hand you - you know, the ones that buzz when it's your turn - people would feel comfortable that someone knew they were waiting. The manager wouldn't have to shout across a full room to try to get people to come back to the main desk when their flight had been assigned a gate. Anyway, it was not a restful waiting space, especially for 2 cranky old people who had been up since 4 am. 

Finally, we took the 3-passenger wheelchair to our gate - having to pass once more through passport and security. Luckily, the assistant has permission to go to the head of the line in both cases, saving a lot of time. The rest went smoothly as we arrived just as they were starting to load our plane.

Dave bought bulkhead seats for us with miles, but the cost is in narrower seats due to having the tray tables built into the seats. I was pretty squished for the whole trip. But the extra leg room was great to have. We also lucked out as the 3rd person in our row found another seat leaving us a free seat.

My favorite part of the 9 hour uneventful flight was watching En Canto. Now I know what my grandchildren are always singing about. A little sleep, a little TV watching, and very little needlework along with 2 meals and a snack got us to Chicago on time, arriving around 3.

My wheelchair assistant met us at the plane and got us through passport control and to luggage. That was again a wonderful help as the lines for passport control were doubled in two long hallways and then snaked through the very large hall with a dozen passport control booths. We were able to skip all the lines and be first to a just-opening booth. 

But then it took an hour to recover the scooter. It never appeared at the oversized luggage, so we went to the luggage assistance area where they tracked it down. Bathrooms tracked down, car picked up we left the airport at 6 pm and were home without incidence by 7:30.

Christie was already at our house with Sasha and  Sonna and had pasta and salad ready for us when we got home. We were in bed by 9 after lots of grandchildren hugs. 

Saturday, June 25, 2022 - On to Paris

 Not the most exciting day to write about, but I did find out some things that I want to remember later.

Nathalie met us at the house shortly after 9 am and while we were chatting, I asked her about the house. As I had guessed, the house had been a farm long before this was a prime vacation area. Her husband was born here and inherited the house from his parents. Nathalie and her husband live in the farmhouse and converted what had been the barn (la grange, in French) to living quarters. Nathalie talked about the life here in the "old days" where the man went off fishing and the wife managed a small farm of a couple cows, chickens, and some small plots of land for crops and produce for the family. 

They are putting in an outdoor (in the garage area) shower this week as they don't have new guests arriving until Friday. We never used the jacuzzi, but the shower will be a welcome addition to that amenity as well as to rinsing off after the beach. 

The drive to Paris was uneventful, until Paris anyway. We drove in and out of sprinkles along the way and were forced to eat lunch in the car. Our usual, sandwiches, chips, apples.

Once to the outskirts of Paris, the "bouchon" (traffic jam) began. At one point it took us 20 minutes to go 1 km (.6 of a mile). You would never want to need a car in Paris. Of course, the motorcycles rode the center line and made good time, but as for the rest of us, dead slow and stop.

We arrived at our Ibis Styles hotel at the airport around 5:00 pm, frazzled and ready to be done. Dave dropped the leased Peugeot which had performed with ease and comfort for the whole trip. Not to mention that it got great gas mileage despite our heavy use. 

Once settled in our postage-stamp sized room, we shared one last apéros, finishing off the cheese and sausage, but not the lucques. We're taking them with us tomorrow to finish with lunch in London. We shared a bottle of Vacqueras which was lovely even if the venue wasn't the most exciting. We went down to the bar for one last glass of wine. It's hard to believe that our time here is done. We feel so comfortable in France, it's becoming a second home. Hopefully we'll get a chance to come back at least one more time. 

Early to bed as we have to get up at 4 am tomorrow to get our flight to London. 

Friday, June 24, 2022

Friday June 24, 2022 - Good-bye from France

 How very interesting! Today it is raining. Really raining, as in spoil anything you want to do raining. But, for us, today is stay home to pack and clean. So once more, we escape the weather and can say that we've only had good weather while here. 

Staying home means taking the car to the car wash, which Dave did when there was a bit of sunshine to break the rain. And washing up my faithful scooter which performed in hazardous situations without complaint. 

I spent some time putting things back where they were when we arrived (at least what I can remember). Nathalie (owner) has assured me that she knows where things go and will get them back to their right places. Whew! 

We're eating the last of the food we didn't send with Dan and Paulette. Naturally, we still have plenty of apéros. We've saved one bottle of wine (Vacqueras) for the hotel in Paris. We also have lunch for the road and our usual assortment of apéro goodies - the last of the Lucques olives, a bit of Epoisse and Roquefort cheeses, some sausage, and of course, slices of baguette. One thing we misjudged on (perhaps because we're missing Clark) is ice cream. There will be ice cream left in the freezer. 

We're bringing our lunch as well and will stop somewhere along the way for a picnic. And apéros in the hotel room. 

It's evening here now, we're packed (as much as possible for tonight) and my mind won't let me contemplate leaving. We'll get on the road in the morning like we do every morning, only we won't be coming back. So I don't think leaving Brittany will hit us until tomorrow night. Of course, each step starting tomorrow brings us closer to home and our kids and grandkids. We miss them mightily and think about them every day. We can't wait for their hugs. We look forward to having Tristen and Arwyn at our house next week. 

We also miss our friends and are hopeful that Covid will allow us normal get-togethers again. Dave has not missed a day for ordering tickets for Badger sports. Some US tasks just have to get done even when we're Francing.

Would I change anything? Well, I could have gotten by with fewer clothes as laundry facilities were available at each house. The car we had was great - good size and very comfortable even for my cranky back. I think we should do something different with the phones next time and just bite the bullet to get data. We had too many times when the phone should have worked and didn't. Luckily, none were emergency situations. Our locations were both great even if they required driving for the morning croissants, which Dave did without complaint. We enjoyed living away from city traffic and found we didn't miss village life at all. Who knows if we'll be able to do this again in two years. Traveling is getting harder as we age - especially for me, but I also see Dave working out the kinks in his back. God-willing and our health holds, I'd be up for another adventure after a long rest.

Bye from France. See you soon in the States.

Lynn (and Dave)

Thursday, June 23, 2022 - The end is near

 This day already feels a bit strange even though it started off the same as always. Dave has gone to Larmor-Baden for bread and croissants, with the addition of 2 Kouign Aman as a breakfast treat to share. Dave made scrambled eggs with cheese for breakfast and Dan and Paulette packed sandwiches for lunch. But today, Dan and Paulette must leave for home in Brussels. The 4 days have flown by. 

And we must think about leaving Brittany for home. It's that strange stage where we are sad to leave this beautiful place and not yet in the mindset of how happy we will be to be home with family and friends. I expect that will happen by this afternoon once we start gathering our things. 

We emptied the cupboard and refrigerator and even the wine shelf of excess that we will not use before leaving on Saturday. It's fortunate that Dan and Paulette brought a small cooler as we have cheeses and salad things we will not be able to use up before Saturday. We are left with just enough food to feed us the next couple of days. And a lot of ice cream. We'll need to eat ice cream for every meal in order to finish it. 

And now Dan and Paulette have left and the airline reservations are out on the table. But it feels too soon to organize leaving. Dave has suggested a couple of local outings we could do and since the sun is shining, we will take advantage of the afternoon. 

The shoreline around the Gulf of Morbihan is difficult to explore. There are many fingers of land that jut into the gulf, with few roads. We're going to use Claire's GPS to get us to some of these fingers in  Larmor-Baden and south of Vannes. We're looking for views of the Gulf from places we haven't yet been. It's a perfect day for exploring. Lots of sun with a mild breeze and temperatures in the 70s. 

Circles show where we stopped on our afternoon driving tour. The distances are short - only about 20 minutes drive from east to west. 

Our GPS has a feature where you can tap the navigation map in a location and it will place a marker there. You can then have the GPS use that as a destination without having to know an address. It's been a great feature for helping us explore the area when we don't know exactly where we're going.

The roads around Larmor-Baden brought us mostly to beaches or hiking paths along the shoreline. Several times we were frustrated by the road becoming private for the last few hundred meters. The roads we could travel were filled with private homes, impressing on us how wealthy the area is. The private property along the shores of the Gulf are not cottages, but large houses, well-maintained, with manicured yards full of flowers. 

Seven Isles - you can walk across a sandbar at low tide to access this island

7 Isles sandbar

panorama of Pointe de Berchis

When we explored south of Vannes, we discovered that the area is covered in shallow marshy ponds whose levels are affected by the tides. To get to this area, we drove through the southern part of Vannes, crossing under the estuary we've seen in the center of Vannes via a tunnel. That was a surprise. 

Imagine a sailboat passing above you as you go under the estuary

Traveling around in this marshy area required miles of driving to get to a point perhaps only a few hundred meters from the last. There seemed to be more parks and public areas in this part of the Morbihan Gulf and it was easier to get to the shore along here. 

Port Anna ferry - useful as it is about 8 miles to get from Conleau to Port Anna by car and they're only half a mile apart by water

looking from Port Anna to Plage de Conleau

Port Anna

Bassin de Conleau - a large swimming area that sits behind a dam. 

Plage de Conleau

Plage de Conleau

We got home in time for apéros and leftovers for dinner. It was a quiet night of catching up on email and the blog. Tomorrow we'll stay home and get organized to leave this lovely place - with sadness.

Monday, June 20, 2022 - A Beautiful Island

 Getting up and out of the house was a bit of a bleary-eyed task this morning, but by shortly after 8 am, we were out of the house, sandwiches in hand.


Claire (our GPS) shows an arrival time of 9:08 which stretches to 9:15 by the time we got to the port in Quiberon. Dave dropped us and headed to find a parking space. As usual, I worried whether he'd get back in time. All the other passengers had loaded and we were waiting at the point where they would check Dan's tickets on his phone. Of course, everything was fine and we  had plenty of time. 

Our ship, the Bangor (named after a Belle-Isle city)

You can bring your car, but it costs $90 one way, so we opted to rent on the island. A good choice.

leaving Quiberon

I was able to drive my scooter up the car ramp and use an elevator to get up to the level of the passenger seating. Of course, being among the last to board, we had trouble finding 4 seats together. But Paulette prevailed and we found seats outside on the back of the ferry. I parked my scooter near the elevator and joined them. The day was beautiful. Sun shine, fresh breeze. Dressed in a sweater over a t-shirt, I was comfortable the whole way. 

We're on the way

Dan and Paulette at the back of the boat

Dave and Lynn enjoying the sun at the back of the boat

Fifty minutes later, we were safely tucked inside the breakwater at the port of Le Palais (the name of the town). 

the seawalls of Le Palais (looking into the sun, so it looks grey)


Entering the Port of Le Palais on Belle Isle

 A huge citadel built by Vauban sits on a rocky promontory overlooking the port. It's an impressive construction of 17th century military architecture. 

part of the citadel. It's closed right now for restoration work

The car rental agency is right across the street from where we debarked and the tourist office is only a few doors away. While Dan checked in with the rental agency, Dave got a map of the island from the tourist office. I watched the ferry load and leave for Quiberon. 

passengers waiting to board - many with suitcases after a vacation weekend


leaving port

Our car is not parked in front of the rental agency, but is several blocks away in an enclosed parking lot. Dan took a navette (small bus) to the lot and returned to pick us up. We were on our way. 

loading our little SUV with the scooter and our raingear (just in case)

Belle-Isle-en-Mer is the largest island of Brittany (85 square km), with 4 cities and 6,000 year-round inhabitants. It is the farthest from the coast of Brittany (50 min by boat from Quiberon) and has a varied landscape including high cliffs, deep valleys, moors and farmland. I am doubtful that we can circumnavigate the island in the few hours we have to explore. 
courtesy of https://liletbelle.com/maps/

We decided to explore our arrival port, Le Palais, at the end of the day, time allowing, and headed north to Pointe de Taillefer for the panoramic view. 

Dan and Paulette at Pointe de Taillefer

We worked our way around the island, counterclockwise, stopping next at Sauzon on the north side of the island. We parked just outside the town and walked the quay all the way to the lighthouse. It was quiet and lovely. 

looking out toward the breakwater

Sauzon

Sauzon

The lighthouse area was very walkable. 

Lynn, Paulette and Dan on the quay

Dave and Lynn near the end of town

We found a little church (and restrooms) and had to investigate. 

How many churches have a view of the water out their door?

the altar

Every church in Brittany has a  ship hanging inside - for good reason.

looking down the nave

Eglise St Nicolas, Sauzon, Belle Isle

Another stop along the coast: 


The very northwestern point of land on Belle Isle is the Pointe de Poulains. Besides its lighthouse on the rocky promontory, it is famous as the summer residence of Sarah Bernhardt. Her manor house is now a museum. We took our lunch along a rock wall with this magnificent view to look at. We also had some persistent guests who refused to find another place to lunch. 

Dave, Lynn, Paulette and Dan with the lighthouse of Pointe de Poulains behind us.

This gull insisted on being a guest at our lunch

Dave, Lynn and the gull

Our gull guest posed for many photos

Dan exploring in our lunch spot

the lighthouse on Pointe de Poulains

Paulette poses with blooms of broom and the lighthouse behind

Our first view of the lighthouse 

The cove of Ster Oeun is a natural fjord surrounded by cliffs with a small beach at the head. It is popular with boats who anchor for the day to explore and swim in the shelter of the cove. 


The beach at Ster Vraz (Big River) is large and popular beach due to it's mix of sand and fine pebbles. It is sheltered by cliffs on either side.

On the southwest corner of the island sit the Aiguilles (needles) de Port Coton, painted by Claude Monet. They are really breathtaking peaks of rock sticking up from the seabed. 

Dave and Dan on top left give and idea of how big these rocks are

panorama from the top

another view. Again, look for the people on top of the rocky cliff on the left to get an idea of the scale

Nearby is a very tall and picturesque lighthouse called Le Grand Phare (The Big Lighthouse) whose 285 granite steps we decided not to climb for the panoramic view. 

Le Grand Phare

We passed through the inland town of Bangor on our way to Locmaria at the southeastern tip of Belle Ile. 

churches of Locmaria

an unusual place for a crucifix, but it really grabs your attention when leaving the church

looking toward altar from back of nave

Eglise Notre Dame de l'Assomption

We made our way along the northern beaches on our way back to Le Palais. 

looking north at La Plage des Grands Sables

looking southeast at La Plage des Grands Sables

Dan dropped us at the ferry dock and returned the car. While we waited for him, we took seats in a café and tried to order ice cream. But they have a non-compete rule that they don't sell ice cream in the afternoon in support of the ice cream stores. Hmmm..... So we had drinks instead. Dan joined us and we had time to finish our drinks leisurely before joining the lines waiting to board the newly arrived ferry.

As we were going to join the line, we were told to wait at the front of the line (because of the scooter) and were  boarded first. How thoughtful. We again found seats outside to enjoy the 50 minute ride back to Quiberon. 

After the car ride home, it was too late to grill, so we had hamburgers and ratatouille (encore) and skipped apéros. (At least that's how I remember it. Paulette and Dan may have clearer memories of the day.)