Wednesday, June 8, 2022 Quimper

Quimper, Brittany, France

Quimper is a fairly large city in western Brittany that began at the confluence of the rivers Odet and Steir. It's medieval center of half-timbered houses spreads out around its gothic cathedral. Situated inland from the coast, Quimper nevertheless has easy access to the Atlantic Ocean via the ria of the Odet. (A ria - I had to look it up too - is a coastal inlet formed by a submerged river valley, allowing the ocean to flow inland.) The center of the city was once encircled by walls and under the control of the church. According to legend, a 5th century king gave his château and the land around it to Saint Corentin to build his church. However, it is more likely that the church was founded in the 10th century. Still pretty old and still a city controlled by the church. It seems an important city to visit, so we're off today to explore Quimper. 

An hour and 20 minutes on good roads, an easy day trip

 A note about the weather. To say it's changeable is an understatement and today is the proof. Today as we wandered the town of Quimper, it was alternating sun, grey clouds, and sprinkles pretty much all day long. And by alternating, I mean every 5 minutes the weather would change. Dave's solution, if there wasn't a building we wanted to visit, he would duck under the awning of a shop and wait. It worked just as well standing under a tree because the rain was so light it wasn't penetrating the tree's leafy cover. We noticed that people just continued whatever they were doing, completely ignoring the weather. 

We set the GPS for the Tourist Office in Quimper and were guided right to the center of the city where we found a handicapped parking space right next to the pedestrian area and the church. What luck. As we were unpacking my scooter, two uniformed people were studying the front of our car. I asked if anything was the matter and they said there was no problem. (whew. I thought we might have to move the car.) I asked them about paying and they said that you never have to pay when parked (legally) in a handicapped space. That's the law throughout France. What an unexpected bonus! We had been paying when the lot was "payant" because we didn't know what the law was. Now we know.

The tourist office was just a block away and was open. Tourist offices for the most part have been well set up with labeled racks of information. When talking to an agent at the counter, they always move to a lower counter so that I don't have to stand. The maps have been useful almost everywhere.

First stop: public toilets just around the corner. For the first time, we have to pay (about 50 cents) to use the facilities. But this place is called a conciergerie (like you have at a hotel, sort of) It is watched over by a woman who makes sure everything is kept clean. You have many services here: WiFi Internet, charge your mobile device, dress your baby, and store your luggage, besides using the facilities. 

Following the Michelin walking tour, we explored the old city starting at Rue Elie-Fréon which empties into Place du Beurre (Butter square) because it was where winter butter (extra salt to preserve it longer) was sold. 

panorama of La Place du beurre

Today, every store front is a creperie and the square is filled with the tables of the various establishments. Renaming it to Place des Créperies would be very appropriate. Nevertheless, there are some very interesting half-timbered houses in this square. 

This house shows the transition from all wood to granite on the first floor. Later houses would be all granite.

We made our way over to the confluence of the Odet and Steir. The Steir is now completely covered creating a large pedestrian area. 

We stopped to check out Les Halles - the covered market, open daily. This one seems to be mostly take out food of all sorts from sandwiches to pizza to deli dishes. 

One aisle of Les Halles - covered market

After a quick spin through, the rain had stopped and we continued our walk toward the Odet and then back to the church, which was locked - lunch we hope. 

carved corbel

house with carved corbels - the little guy with crossed legs is on left

Pardon the bad picture but this is one of the "navettes" little electric busses that run through the central part of the city. I believe riding them is free (to encourage leaving cars at home).

More carvings on a fancy half-timbered house

This is the carving, possibly of the owner of the house. It was apparently popular to have carvings of yourself on your house. I guess if you're rich enough...

We walked into the episcopal palace where we ate our lunch on one of the benches. 

Courtyard of the bishop's palace

The episcopal palace is now a museum of Breton history and culture. I was anxious to see it. They had a special exhibition on Breton music called Barzaz Breiz. It seemed to be songs related to various Breton cultural practices, but unfortunately, we couldn't figure out the point. We knew they were collected and published in 1839 by a man named La Villemarqué and that they are songs about legends and history that had been handed down orally in Breton culture.  We also figured out that there has been controversy about this book with some suggesting Villemarqué added and changed too many things in the songs. According to Wikipedia, researched after the fact, Barzaz Breiz translates as Ballads of Brittany. The importance of this book is that it was the first time someone had tried to document these songs of legends and culture, thus helping bring interest in the Breton language and culture. 

Anyway, the museum was full of lots of interesting things from pre-history to the 19th century. Of course, my favorites were the costumes, each encased in glass to see the front and the back. 

A gallo-roman floor

The costumes were for dress occasions and were very complicated outfits

This painting shows young women wearing less complicated costumes

The handwork on these dresses was impressive as were the lace bonnets, each region having it's own style of bonnet

Furniture showed fine craftsmanship and detailed carving. 

This fancy carved bed served as a bench during the day.

Chests were used to store everything - food, linens, clothing and were an important item in the home.

And finally, Brittany is known for its faience - intricately hand painted pottery. I could have taken a photo of every piece in the collection. 

This piper is leading imps called korrigans who, according to legend, are usually malevolent spirits, but can be benevolent at times.

Painting of Quimper

Painting of Locmariaquer

There was a room whose focus was on how Bretons handled death and their embodiment of the grim reaper called L'Ankou. 

Carving of a l'Ankou. They are said to gather souls at night and put them in their cart.

Celtic beliefs were mixed into Catholic practices. Death became part of daily life. I understood a little from the room explaining the L'Ankou. Once home I googled this grim reaper figure of legend and found a really interesting article, if you're interested in learning more. A fascinating read.

Feeling a bit more familiar with Celtic culture (not saying much, before I had no understanding of Celtic culture), we headed for the church which was now open. 

Le Cathédral de St. Corentin

This cathedral is massive and bright with its white pillars and salmon colored ceilings. The Cathedral of St. Corentin is Gothic with parts from the 13th and 15th centuries. St. Corentin was the first bishop of Quimper in the 5th century. 

 

Of course, the stained glass windows were spectacular. 

There are city walls somewhere and some gardens that look interesting, but we've run out of time and energy. I have to admit, I slept on the way back home.