Kim and I need a lazy morning with no departure time. Dave and Dale don't want to sit around, so they found an easy hike around Carpentras, after which they'll return home for lunch and then we'll all go to Gigondas to taste wine (and check out the town).
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| start of the hike in Carpentras |
The hike feels like it's in the country, but it's actually in town, mostly following a canal. It starts just outside the medieval gate in Carpentras.
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| Port d'Orange |
Cities in the Rhone valley, Carpentras included, raised their ramparts, enclosing the city behind fortified walls with limited access via portals (like the Port d'Orange, the only gate remaining in Carpentras). The idea was to protect the people and defend the town from the raiding groups of former military now at loose ends since the end of the 100 years war.
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| Canal de Carpentras |
A pleasant walk mostly along the Carpentras canal, with little change in elevation, was just what was needed to start the day.
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| Canal de Carpentras |
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| the walk is actually around the edge of the city |
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| The canal disappears under a road |
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| a pleasant lane for walking |
After lunch, we all headed to Gigondas to taste wine at the wine coop there.
We had tasted (and bought) wine from an individual grower - in fact, it was our first tasting in this region the second day we were here. It was time to go back.
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| the wine coop at Gigondas |
Founded in 1956, the coop now has 73 member vintners, tending 260 hectares (650 acres), making 27 different wines that are shipped to 27 countries. (Is the US one of them? We'll have to check.)
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| view of Gigondas vineyard and Dentelles de Montmirail in back |
We tasted a white, two rosés, and 2 reds and bought 8 bottles.
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| Dave, Kim & Lynn tasting wine |
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| the automatic wine server - push the button and it pours wine into the glass - behind the counter, of course |
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| the white |
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| one of the reds |
Our young hostess spoke excellent English and helped us choose the right wines to taste - meaty reds, dry whites and rosés.
When we had finished, we headed up by car to the castle in Gigondas to explore the village.
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| looking up toward the church above the town which is perched on a rocky ledge below the Dentelles de Montmirail |
Dave had done this once on a hike and had discovered the road to the top of the castle. We parked next to the cemetery, just outside the castle walls.
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| the cemetery just outside the castle walls with a view of the Dentelles de Montmirail |
French cemeteries are always interesting to explore. We noticed that most graves of relatively recent (1900s or later) even though the cemetery has been here as long as the church.
That's because one leases a cemetery plot from the town for an amount of time, 15, 30, or 50 years, after which you must renew your lease or the grave is considered abandoned and the memorials on it will be removed and the site sold to others. (For that reason, it's better to do genealogy in the church records rather than trying to find old souls in the cemetery.)
One can also purchase a plot in perpetuity for additional cost.
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| This plot was purchased in perpetuity - the graves are from the mid-19th century |
Bones of abandoned plots are removed to an ossuary or are cremated and reburied once the city takes over an abandoned plot. These then can be purchased or leased from the city by another family,
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| This sign for the grave below says: This plot is considered abandoned and is being taken over again (by the city). Please ask at the mayor's office (if interested) |
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| the abandoned plot |
Another feature of French cemeteries is that the crypts are mostly above ground and include multiple family members.
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| Mourners buy plaques as memorials to place on top of the graves. The ceramic flowers seen on the grave in the foreground are common here. |
Reading the memorials is always interesting. They are often small plaques placed on top of the grave by relatives and friends. They bear messages of love and condolences to the loved one.
I find wandering in French cemeteries peaceful and calming, perhaps because they are different than ours and I have no connection to the people buried in them. I wonder if I'd feel the same in a US cemetery.
The church (St. Catherine) sits just below the cemetery on the inside of the castle walls.
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| Église Sainte Catherine |
Slightly above and integrated with the castle walls is a former 17th century hospice, today housing contemporary art exhibits.
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| view of St. Catherine and former hospice (above and right of church) taken from upper castle ruins |
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| Kim standing above near the former hospice |
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| Kim in doorway leading to the hospice |
This church has a sundial built into the right side of its Romanesque structure
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| Sun dial of Sainte Catherine's - they're never completely accurate - no way to change for daylight savings time |
and a bell tower on the left.
Again, the bell is in a wrought-iron cage. We've learned that one reason for the popularity of these types of bell cages was to allow the winds of the Mistral to flow through them unimpeded.
While the church is locked, there is a patio with views over the rooftops of the town and across the valley.
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| view across the valley and Gigondas vineyards |
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| Gigondas spreads out below the church on the steep hillside of the Dentelles de Montmirail |
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| Looking down over the edge of the church terrace - it descends quickly by steep paths and steps |
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| walking through town on steep cobbled streets is a feat of balance |
While Dave and I drove down to the main square of the town, Kim and Dale walked down after visiting the remaining castle walls.
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| some places have steps - no chariot riding here |
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| view from castle over church, hospice and town with vineyards below |
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| the town square |
The main square is shaded and quiet. A large public square is surrounded by the Tourist Office, town hall, the Maison de Vin, and a restaurant.
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| the stone may be warm colors of beige, but the shutters and garage doors are always colorful |
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| tree in front of the mairie |
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| The Maison de Vin for Gigondas is on the main square of the town |
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| looking from the town square toward the restaurants down the street |
Leaving town, we decided to drive up toward the Dentelles de Monmirail hoping to get to the parking lot we found with Janis and Clark. However, the route is barred at Les Florets restaurant, so we can only get half as high as we did on our first attempt.
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| As close as we can get by car |
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| winery of Les Florets |
Oh, well. Maybe we should try some of our new wine.
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| Kim with our purchases - red box is a BIB (bag in box) of red Gigondas |
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