Last time we were in Arles, my chariot broke ending the day prematurely, so we're headed back today so Dale and Kim can see more Roman ruins.
What a difference! Last time we were almost blown away from the Arena and it was warm in the sun, but cold in the wind. This time the temperatures are in the 80s and no wind. And my chariot is happy.
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| My attempt at marking our route in the old city |
We parked outside the city walls on the north side this time, and brought our lunch with us. Dave has a walking tour planned from the Eyewitness Provence guide. Once again, I'm amazed at the fact that, even though we were recently here, my experience for the day includes lots of things I didn't see the first time.
A note about the city walls. Like most cities here, citizens needed a safe place from maurauders and lawlessness that occurred from the end of Roman rule through the Middle Ages. Thus they reinforced the Roman walls that enclosed the city and limited access via gates that could be guarded and closed. People lived inside the walls, in fact, in the case of Arles, they fortified and built houses inside the Arena. Arles has a surprisingly large section of their walls still intact, circling the historic ancient city.
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| Porte de la Cavallerie with Kim reading signs |
The Porte de la Cavallerie was the north entrance near the convent and commanderie of the chevaliers du Temple and next to the Rhone River. These Templiers were both military and religious, fighting in the Crusades, escorting pilgrims along routes to Lourdes and Saint Jacques de Compostelle and protecting holy relics in their commanderies (like monasteries) and convents.
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| This Templar seems to be out of uniform |
We entered by the Porte de la Cavallerie and headed toward the Fontaine de Pichot.
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| Fontaine de Pichot |
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| the enameled tile medallion that needed a home |
Inspired by the Saint Michel fountain in Paris, which likewise sits at the point of two intersecting streets, this fountain was built in the 1880s after purchasing and tearing down two houses formerly in this location. The purpose of the building was to honor the artist, Paul Balzé, who made the central enameled medallion. Pierre Amédée-Pichot purchased the medallion (an allegory of poetry after Raphael) to honor his father, Amédée Pichot, who was a man of letters, primarily a journalist, bibliophile, and translator of English literature. The son gave the medallion to the city of Arles, but no suitable place was found to display it. So, he purchased the houses and built the fountain. Complicated, I know. But impressive to look at now.
We walked further into the city along some narrow picturesque shopping streets.
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| sign in tile in front of a tobacco shop |
Kim and I stopped to look at a store selling fabrics and flosses. She also sold antique clothing. Lovely things to look at.
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| the fabric store |
Next we headed back to Roman times and headed to the remains of the Thermes de Constantin, Roman baths along the Rhone river.
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| outside of Thermes de Constantin |
What's here is impressive and it is only 1/3 of its former glory. For Romans, the baths were a daily social as well as cleansing activity, taken just before the evening meal. Rich people had their own private baths built into their houses, but for the general public, the baths were the place to be. These were a Roman empire addition to public buildings due to the invention of the hypocauste, an underground heating system that funneled air under the raised floors and to the pools.
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| the structure of the hypocauste |
After exercising in the gym, bathers used three pools, the calderium (hot water) followed by the tepidarium (warm water) and finally the frigidarium (self-explanatory). It was believed that these kept the body healthy.
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| calderium pool |
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| rectangular calderium pool |
A quick look at the river outside the Thermes de Constantin
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| Rhone River |
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| Restaurant along the Rhone in an old building |
and then we made our way to les Arènes d'Arles - the Roman ampitheatre, used today for bullfights and spectacles.
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| Did I mention some streets were really narrow? |
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| loved the colors and textures of this window |
This first century arena was built for entertainment - chariot races and gladiator combats. It could seat 20,000 spectators.
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| the arena |
By the 5th century and the fall of the Roman empire and the barbarian invasions, the arena became a fortified city, adding 4 large towers to the ediface.
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| towers added in middle ages; bleacher seating added in 21st century |
Inside there were 200 houses and 2 chapels surrounding a central square. In 1825, the government began buying out the housing and by 1830, the arena once again hosted sports spectaculars.
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| looking down from second tier of arena |
The arena is considerably handicapped accessible and I could drive through the inner and outer corridors of the arena and enter most first level seating areas.
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| interior hallways lead to the seating sections on right |
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| external corridor encircles the entire building providing entrances/exits in Roman times |
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| looking from interior corridor to arena |
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| well, who are these spectators? Dave, Kim, and Dale study the arena |
Of course, last time my chariot had died and the wind nearly blew us all away, so this visit was considerably more leisurely.
Leaving the arena, we made our way to the southeast corner of the old city - near the park where we had lunch last time.
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| house outside the arena - I loved the color of the shutters |
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| St. Mary de Major church on our way to lunch |
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| Oops. I guess I won't go up that street! |
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| lovely shutters, lovely flowers, funky fish floating in the bird cage |
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| Janis & Clark - remember this spot? No one came up today to offer us help. Luckily, we knew where we were this time |
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| More cool shutters and door |
This time, however, we needed shade rather than sun, so chose to sit on some stone walls near the Church of Saint Blaise, just above the park.
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| Kim sitting on rock wall with convent entrance gate behind |
Our usual lunch, sandwiches, fruit, cut veggies, and mustard chips. Clark - we bought these for Dale and Kim to try and, you guessed it, hooked.
There is another chapel, St. Jean de Moustiers, 12th century, at this site. It is half buried indicating that the land has been built up over the centuries.
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| Chapel of St. Jean de Moustiers - only apse is left and it's wall is built into the next house |
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| medieval soil level was 3 or so feet lower than today |
Across from the apse of St Jean de Moustiers is an entrance to the 6th century convent of Saint-Césaire. This is the site of the first paleo-christian church in Arles. It suffered in the various conflicts across the centuries, was sold as national property during the French Revolution, and later became an old-age home until 1980. It currently is used by the city for diverse offices, But the gates are cool.
A quick walk through a two block street that is lined with an array of restaurants, brought us to the Roman theatre. Built in the 1st century AD, this theatre is used still today for performances. I'm not sure how I'd feel about sitting for hours on a stone seat.
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| theatre seating |
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| Kim provides perspective to massive size of the columns remaining |
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| Kim in top row seating. How comfortable is it Kimmie? |
The Place de la République is one I've visited before.
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| Place de la République - St. Anne on left, Hôtel de Ville center behind obelisk, St. Trophime church and manastery on right |
It's the heart of the old city and the seat of both government and church, thanks to the church and cloister of Saint-Trophime,
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| Inside the church of St. Trophime |
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| one of the chandeliers in the church |
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| the high altar |
the Church of St. Anne, and the Hôtel de Ville.
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| Hôtel de Ville |
Today, the fountain surrounding the Roman obelisk is full of water.
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| water spouts out the man's mouth |
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| the Roman obelisk in the center of the plaza |
Taxis are carrying sightseers around town.
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| that is pedal taxis |
I parked in the shade by an ice cream store and stitched while watching the goings-on on the square. Several pre-teens were roller skating and skateboarding around the square. A young boy outfitted head to toe in protective gear was learning to roller blade. Tentative and struggling for balance, the boy would make a trip around the obelisk (it's a pedestrian area, so cars are rare - deliveries or services only). He'd return to his dad, sitting on the steps next to me to ask if he saw how he was doing. A mother sat on the edge of the fountain while her toddler splashed in the water.
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| a boy and his mom enjoying the fountain |
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| water pours from the spout of this flamingo on the edge of the fountain |
There was only one group of American tourists in the time I sat, the square seemed to belong to the locals this Saturday afternoon.
Dave had one more site he wanted to check out. The Espace Van Gogh is housed in the former Hôtel Dieu (hospital).
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| Entrance to the Hôtel Dieu |
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| Dave looking over the cloister gardens |
While it's true that Van Gogh spent time in Arles, and time in this hospital, there are no original works by Van Gogh here. And none of the buildings he painted exist today. But he did paint the cloister here and it still looks a lot like the painting.
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| copy of Van Gogh's painting of the Hôtel Dieu courtyard |
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| Hôtel Dieu courtyard |
Today it is a museum with changing exhibits,
Back to the car and home. Our house is covered in white flowers now which make Kim sneeze uncontrollably. Allergies have been uncomfortable for both Kim and I as we go through this extended spring season. There's always something blooming.
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| beautiful but sneeze causing flowers cover our front porch |
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