May 22, 2019 Gordes, Bories, and Roussillon

We're off to the Luberon this morning with a long day planned. Kim wants to see bories (stone huts) typical of the region, so what better place than the Village des Bories near Gordes. And while we're in the region, we'll stop at Roussillon so Lynn can buy some ochre paints. Our GPS wants us to take the scenic route, apparently.

this path through a farmer's fields was a shortcut to another road. really.

It's clearly tourist season. Towns are crowded as busloads of people, mostly older adults, are flooding the towns. I heard German, Dutch, British and American English. In talking to some along the way, their itineraries are tight. Today Roussillon, tomorrow the Camargue.

I checked out the art exhibit in the former chapel of the White Penitents

Chapel of  White Penitents used to be part of the city gate and is now used for exhibition space

while the rest toured the castle which doesn't take much time as it is empty of furnishings except for some modern art. That seems to be a thing in France, to have modern art exhibits in castles. We've seen it lots and it confuses us.

steps leading into the castle

lots of stairs in this castle

And I found this lovely basket on a stone bench where I was stitching by the castle.

While the rest tromp up and down the streets below the castle, I sat in a sunny spot at a picturesque overlook of the valley below and the warm stone buildings.

the man is standing where I parked my chariot to stitch in the sun

my stitching view

I happily stitched there until I got too hot and had to move to a more shaded spot just a few feet away.

when I moved to the shade

Sights of the lower town of Gordes:

Dale and Kim on the road out of town - whoops! wrong turn - climb back up to town!

this is a frequent sight in towns that cling to cliff faces - stairs carved in the center, but smooth (if you can call cobblestones smooth) on either side so a wagon (or car) can drive up

One talkative Brit wanted to know our opinion of Trump. He couldn't believe we thought he was a crook and an incompetent president. He thought Hilary was a crook (but gave no supporting evidence) and Trump was the better option. We asked him about Brexit and he thought it was a great idea. He and his wife bemoaned the money paid to the EU each year that could be better used at home. Clearly, a conservative, we didn't argue, but simply listened to his talking points. I did some checking and it looks like the EU spends 8.9 billion pounds more for membership than it gets back in cash payments from the EU. I'd have to check to see what common benefits it gets that do not come back as cash to the coffers.

He thought they'd have better trade options if they could trade with whomever they wanted without EU restrictions. (Does the EU restrict trade? I'll have to check that out)  But both imports and exports within the EU account for 50% of Britain's trading. Certainly, Britain would need to re-negotiate all the trade agreements with each country once they leave the EU since they would no longer be able to participate in the trade agreements made by the EU on behalf of its member countries.

This gentleman also thought Britain should leave NATO. Then he said how respectful Brits are of Americans who saved their butts in WWI and WWII. Maybe he thinks Britain doesn't need protection because their US allies will save them if they get in trouble again? I'm not sure why leaving NATO is a benefit for Britain.

I know these sentiments are on the minds of some portion of the French. I see posters for the upcoming EU elections (on Sunday, May 26) supporting Frexit - France leaving the EU.

And for the first time, I see posters against Macron rather than for a platform. Typically, French parties (and there are many) support a particular policy direction - conservative, Communist, workers, environment, pet lovers (seriously, I saw posters for this - maybe it's a joke? or maybe it's serious.)

Never against anyone or any platform, but FOR their position. I've also seen anti-Macron signs posted outside of the allowed public posting boards. Some folks are defiant!

Anyway, we shook our heads, wished each other "bonne continuation" (happy rest of your vacation). Dale went to look for a hat while Dave and I spied a lovely park next to the parking lot where we could eat our lunch in the shade. (It's hot in the sun today.)

Kim posing with roses inside a boxwood hedge

single white roses

lunch in the shade - Lynn, Dave, Kim

After lunch, we walked back to our car, stopping at the public restrooms just below our parking lot before heading out of town for the postcard viewpoint of Gordes.

There's a sheer drop off behind David. I could hardly look.

Just a couple kilometers down the road is a large parking lot. There are several campers in it with tables and chairs set up for lunch. Dave decided to park here and walk the 1.2 km (about 1 mile) to the Village des Bories rather than risk meeting another car while driving those crazy narrow lanes again. I stayed behind in a shady spot and stitched.

one lane road, no shoulders, stone walls on either side. What do you do when you meet a car from the other direction?

Once again, the bories surprise and amaze with the skill and simple technologies used to create buildings that last centuries.

Kim checking out the bories - there are about 20 of them here - an entire village

Our final stop for the day is Roussillon, the red town. This time we parked in a large lot half-way up the hill to the Sentier des Ochres. Ever since Judy bought ochre paints there, I've been sorry I didn't get any while we were there. So while Dale, Kim, and Dave went to the Sentier des Ochres (the ocher path), I went shopping.

late afternoon sun makes all the colors glow

reds get redder in the afternoon sun

cliffs of varied colored ochers

walking down to the Sentier des Ochres

Then while they made a quick visit to the town, I sat on a bench overlooking the ocher colored hills with a view to the town and the valley below, A beautiful shady spot. With a peach tree right next to me.

peaches are set on the peach trees around town

A group of cyclists - all as old as me, I think - rode up to my spot and took a rest in the shade of the benches. I listened to them talk about their children and grandchildren. Their fitness astonished me even though a few had electric boost bikes. They had to climb 725 feet of vertical to get to these benches. And they had a 20 mile ride back down, I heard them say. Of course, they were all dressed in appropriate cycling attire. After a few minutes, one gentleman got up from the bench and his age showed in his bent figure and slow, careful steps as he walked over to his bike. I was even more impressed.

Since we were in Roussillon late in the day, the red ochers really glowed in the late afternoon sun.

Roussillon in the late afternoon sun

Poppies have been blooming ever since we got here. They're still beautiful in late May. 

Most people were gone by the time we walked to the car and the town was returning to its residents for the night.

This is the way down that cyclists have to take.

We headed home for grilled barbecued pork chops and salad following our apero course of cheese, bread, strawberries, cherries, olives and of course wine.

notice the short sleeves! and the Tavel rosé

It's now warm enough for aperos on the terrace, so that's really pleasant and leads to opening a second bottle while preparing the main course. An already prepared bread pudding was our dessert.