May 26, 2019 Chauvet 2, gorges of the Ardeche and Aigueze

map to Chauvet cave

Once again we purchased tickets for the 11:20 tour in English at the replica of the Pont d'Arc cave, called Chauvet 2.

view of the reproduction cave from the lunch terrace

Our tour guide this time was Thierry and he was outstanding. And he told us things that we hadn't heard in the previous tour. There's always so much to learn in these historic sites.

This time, we ate lunch in the picnic area above the restaurant inside the Chauvet 2 complex and then went back to the Aurignacian museum to spend more time understanding the exhibits. Besides the reconstructed animals,

we could listen to scientists - archeologists, spelunkers, experts on paleolithic culture - explain the findings and what they mean. It's amazing how these scientists can piece together this pre-history from clues left behind and from the study of similar caves. One question remaining is how many others of these hidden caves might yet to be found. And for those caves that remained open to air, any evidence of paleolithic culture would have been erased by the elements. It's quite incredible to consider the spirituality of these Aurignacians who, while hunters and gatherers, were just like us in brain capacity - the ability to think, analyze, plan, express their thoughts and emotions, make art, and sustain a culture that had exhibited spirituality as well as practicality.

Finished at Chauvet 2, we drove through the Ardeche gorge more quickly this time, making fewer stops.

Pont d'Arc

As awe inspiring as the landscape is, the ride is still scary because of the steep drop offs and no guard rails. Quite a few times Kim and I were steering from the back and looking away from the view over the gorge to safer level ground.

driving through a tunnel on the corniche road

 Nevertheless, the views are as spectacular today as before.

As its Sunday, there seem to be more people down at the river, bathing or canoeing/kayaking. But there seemed to be fewer travelers on the corniche road (and no buses - ok one bus which we didn't think could fit through the arch) which made the drive easier.

We got to the end of the gorges and the Plus Beau village of Aiguèze about 4:30

Aiguèze on the hilltop above the Ardeche River

and spent a half hour looking around. You can tell it's used to hosting tourists by the shops selling local crafts - lavenders, honeys, postcards. But the village was quiet this late in the afternoon. Men were playing boules (bocci) on the pitch (Jeu de Paume) near the church.

The Jeu de Paume boules court on the right with the church of St. Pierre in the background

the boules game is taken seriously here

Families were gathered at the café having a late afternoon coffee, wine, and perhaps ice cream.

café on the main square with the funny trees to shade it

The remnant of the town that belies its pleasant nature is the ruined fortress, several towers of which still remain.

castle walls from the Castellas rampart give views over the river 

The history here is similar to most small villages in Provence. The need for protection against enemies, revolts, destruction of the castle, neglect.

the town, and even parts of the church were fortified for safety 

Archbishop Fuzet of Rouen was instrumental in saving the village and re-establishing its character.

St. Pierre

ceramic bas relief over the side portal

The 11th century church, St. Pierre was lovely, all painted on the inside

the church is beautifully decorated

and painted

a statue to St. Joan of Arc

and filled with beautiful statues in the chapels. Several stained glass windows included photos of what Aiguèze looked like in 1910.

castle walls in 1910

the church in 1910

We wandered along the old streets of the village, coming to a lovely view over the Ardeche river with views as far as Mont Ventoux. (That mountain is visible everywhere!)

Mt Ventoux in the background looking east

And I saw this lovely lending library on a wall under an arch-covered street.

Home tonight, we not only had aperos outside, but also it was warm enough to eat dinner outside. Finally!