Gruissan - Fontfroide Abbey - May 30, 2024

 We're chasing good weather. Our area is supposed to be cold and rainy, but east at the Mediterranean, it's supposed to be sunny and warm, but windy. So our target is Gruissan, a fishing village and beach town that sits as a spur of land surrounded by ponds and a large Mediterranean beach.

The old part of town encircles the ruins of its castle. 

We parked across the Canal du Grazal, near the Bassin Barbareuse marina, then walked across the bridge and into the old town. We were all wearing jackets because, while it was sunny, the wind was strong and cold.

The castle sits above the old part of town.

It's cold enough to need a jacket.

We stopped first at the parish church of Notre Dame de l'Assomption which sits at the center of the old town and directly below the (now ruined) castle. 

Church entrance on left, steps to castle on right.

This church, dedicated to Mary, also shows its association with the fishermen whose work was the lifeblood of the city. The ribs of the vault look like the inverted hull of a ship. and a model fishing ship hangs prominently from the back of the nave. 

ribbed vault of nave

Built in the 13th century as a fortified church, it would have been part of the town's defenses. The bell tower could serve as a guard tower to protect the village. While there have been modifications to the church over the centuries, the "meurtrières," those narrow vertical windows still remain. In wartime, soldiers could throw projectiles or shoot arrows at an invading army. 

narrow windows 

the bell tower was also defensive

While I waited outside the church, Dave, Ron, Chris, and Mad climbed the 100 or so feet to the ruins of the castle. Luckily there were railings to hold onto because the wind was strong enough to knock you off your feet if you weren't careful. 

The castle was built in the 10th century and allowed a good 360 degree surveillance of the coastline around it, protecting the village below it. 

looking down on the square by the church

view from the top

view from the top

It was dismantled in the 16th century; its stones used to build the church and houses in the village. Only the Barbarossa Tower still stands. 

Once down, our next task was to find a place to eat lunch and a public bathroom. That turned out to be difficult. Of course, the tourist office was closed for lunch, One sign pointed us down a street, but there were no more signs. I asked a restaurant worker who pointed in the same general direction and said bathrooms were across from the Post Office. We bumbled our way around side streets until finally coming to a large square where the schools and post office were. But the bathroom still wasn't obvious. Finally, I looked in an open door and voilà! toilets. 

The toilets are in here. Do you see any signs?

In that same square, there  were tables set out for a bakery that was closed for the day. The wind was still very strong, so we used a table in a sheltered corner of the bakery. Thank you Boulangerie Bernard!

This is how hard the wind was blowing: 

palm tree across from our table

Gruissan's modern life centers around its beaches. There is a community of 1330 small beach houses built on stilts behind the wide sand beach, called la Plage des Chalets. 

Even on this day when we were being sand-blasted by the wind driving the sand at us hard enough to hurt, there were jet skis, wind surfers, and paddle boarders in the water. And a gathering of other water sports enthusiasts for lunch and refreshments at a beachside bar/restaurant. Needless to say, we didn't stay long.

The beach is incredibly beautiful - fine white sand, blue Mediterranean water.

But it's hard to stand in the wind because we're being pelted with sand.

That's not haze in the air, that's sand.

That says it all!

Fontfroide Abbey is only half an hour from Gruissan and in the direction of home. We had time, so we stopped. 

Fontfroide has been privately owned by the Fayet family since 1908 when the property was auctioned. (The last monks left in 1901.) Gustave Fayet was both an artist and museum curator who renovated Fontfroide, but also added his own eclectic touches, most notably in the art and stained glass of the abbey, but also in fountains, statues, and gardens. The Cistercians who lived here believed in poverty and austerity, so we are not seeing the abbey as the Cistercians would have. 

grillwork is modern and beautiful

in the courtyard

This sculpture was made with found objects - including a lot of old mousetraps.

nave of the church

modern stained glass

20th century rose window

This side chapel has perfect acoustics. It makes you sound like a choir. A beautiful space that makes you want to sing.

Lynn in the cloister

taken from the second floor where the monks' dormitory was.

Dave & Lynn in the rose garden

The abbey was begun in 1093 by the Benedictines, then given over by the Cistercians in 1145. At one time, the abbey owned more than 20,000 hectares (almost 50,000 acres of land) and was very rich which explains the luxuriousness of the buildings, courtyards, and the church. 

Of course, the abbey was seized in the French Revolution and given to the Hospices of Narbonne. 

We've packed a lot into this day, so we need to get back to Le Cazal. We still need to drive an hour to get home. We will all sleep well tonight.