Across the mountains to Barcelona - May 8, 2024

 Janis and Clark left very early (6 am) to get to Toulouse in time for their 9:30 flight. We also got going early-ish in order to get to Barcelona by mid-afternoon. We headed south toward Andorra to cross the Pyrenees into Spain.

The scenery was awe-inspiring even though the photos taken out the car windows don't do it justice. There aren't very many passes where you can cross the Pyrenees. Luckily, we happen to be near the E9 which crosses into Spain over the Col de Puymorens. At first the mountains were covered in dense fog through which we climbed toward the pass.

eerie and interesting at the same time

By happy accident we missed the tunnel turn-off (a straight road) and actually drove over the pass at 6,300 feet. The road to the pass is highway quality, albeit with lots of turns and hairpins. Near the top, the fog cleared and we could see snow on the mountains.

At the pass there was a bit of snow on the ground and the mountains revealed themselves under blue skies. 

We headed down the southern side by hairpin turns into warm weather, sunny skies and more beautiful panoramas.

Ur, in the Pyrenées-Orientales sits on the border between France and Spain. This train station serves the 350 or so residents of Ur.

Looking back (north) at the mountains from the Spanish side.

Once in Barcelona, we found a place to park (on the street and free) a block from our rented apartment and next to a little park overlooking the Besos river where we ate our lunch.  We stayed on the northeast side of Barcelona in a 5th floor (with elevator) roof-top apartment with views over the city.

looking across the Besòs River

Kim on our balcony

Dave & Lynn enjoying the evening light on our balcony

telephoto view of La Sagrada Familia

Once settled, we went out for an explore. Barcelona is a huge city (population 5,700,000) served by a very efficient and mostly handicap accessible subway system. Our stop, Artigues-Sant Adrià, was only one block from our apartment building. 

Kim looking for our train

Dave and Kim riding the subway. The Metro doesn't offer much seating, but there are plenty of places to stand. The first and last cars were handicap accessible so it was easy to roll on and off the car.

Once above ground, we walked down Passeig de Gracià, a wide, busy shopping street, the Rodeo Drive of Barcelona, passing one of Antoni Gaudi's apartment buildings along the way. The Casa Milà (or La Pedrera, 1906-1912) was built as an apartment building for the Mila family who lived on the first floor with apartments they rented in the upper stories. The front undulates with balconies made of wrought iron.

Passieg de Gracià is a main thoroughfare of downtown.

Casa Milà

undulating curve with wrought iron balconies

front door of Casa Milà. You can tour this building. It's supposed to be a work of art inside as well as outside.

Gaudi (1852-1926) was an architect and designer of the Modernista movement in Spain. Most of his buildings are in his native city, Barcelona. I find his work to be Dr. Seuss-like with curves, carvings, and decorations that are unexpected but that make you want to see more. He often used a technique called "trencadís" - broken tiles used to create mosaic patterns - on parts of his structures. 

This lizard from Park Guell shows off the trencadìs technique. You need tickets to visit, but well worth the time. We didn't have tickets - it's best to get them ahead of time as entry is limited.

Gaudi is most well-known as the architect of the as-yet unfinished cathedral of Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. 

Sagrada Familia - Sacred Family

We only saw Gaudi's Casa Batlò from the outside and across the street, but we should have investigated further. This building, which from a distance looks like it is painted in blobs of color, like a pointillist painting, is actually covered in trencadís tile work. The roof is created from colored tiles that change color as they move across the roofline. 

Casa Batlò

We left Passieg Gracià and crossed the Plaça de Catalunya, Barcelona's largest square, to get to La Ramblas, Barcelona's entertainment district, full of nightclubs and restaurants. The Plaça is also apparently pigeon heaven.

Dave & pigeons at Plaça Catalunya

This lady and her son were giggling happily amongst the pigeons. I'm not sure what she did to attract them, but count me out on that score.

La Rambla typifies the vibe of the city - young and busy (and also crowded). 

This street is is Barcelona's center for nightlife.

At the end of La Rambla is the port of Barceloneta, another lively place next to Barcelona's very popular beach. 

Column to honor Christopher Columbus erected for the World Exposition of 1888. It reminds us that Christopher Columbus reported to King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella of Spain after his first voyage.

Lion on the base of the Columbus column

at the port of Barceloneta

No time for the beach, although we saw many people in swim clothes. We needed to find dinner so we headed away from the beach into the "Gothic City" - the old walled, narrow-alley, city center. 

In the Gothic City, Plaça del Regomir

We checked out the Bistro Sensi, recommended to us by our friend, Joann. But reservations were necessary. The maitre d' told me to thank Joann for recommending them.

Tapas restaurant Sensi Bistro on Carrer del Regomir - we learned they have 4 locations and we can book online for tomorrow night

So we walked a bit further to find an outdoor tapas restaurant where we had dinner. Spaniards eat late - tapas are small plates of appetizers served in the early evening, followed by dinner at 8 or 9 pm - too late for most Americans, including us. It is recommended practice to order 2 or 3 dishes per person and then share around the table. That way, we got to sample many dishes. Yumm!

traveling acrobats entertained on the street and then passed the hat. These guys were amazing acrobats.

Tapas San Miguel, Carrer dels Gegants

Walking back to our Metro stop that would take us back to our apartment, we crossed a square where Catalan separatists were singing and waving Catalan flags. This separatist movement is over 100 years old and has gained momentum in recent years. Spain refuses (of course) to consider Catalan independence while the separatist movement continues to challenge Spanish rule. It's a political hot potato which sometimes boils over into violence at both anti- and pro-separatist rallies. 

I'm about out of scooter battery, so it was time to go back to our apartment. Dave and Dale helped me get home by pushing the last block to our building. We're all tired. Aren't you? We packed a lot into this day and we all went to bed early.

night view from our balcony