Mirepoix - a Bastide City May 1, 2024

 Happy May Day! 

As explained in my previous post, May 1 is a national holiday in France. It is Labor Day as well as Fête de Muguet - Lily-of-the-Valley Fest. Clark bought a sprig of muguet for Janis which is now gracing our dining table - along with the empty Picpoul bottle that disappeared during lunch. 

Dale with muguet and Picpoul de Pinet

Four intrepid explorers spent the morning in Mirepoix, the town nearest us, about a 10 minute drive. As the weather is cold (50's) and rainy, all the layers were needed to keep warm.

Clark in the in our "front" yard

Mirepoix is a bastide town, built by Jean de Lévis in 1290 after the original town was destroyed by a flood. This second town was built on high ground on the opposite side of the Hers River. A bastide is a planned town, built all at once, walled, but not fortified. Over 700 were built most in the 100 years between 1272 and 1372. Mostly in southwest France, these towns replaced villages destroyed in the Albigensian campaign against the Cathars. They also served to colonize wilderness areas. Most bastides feature a grid plan laid out around a central open square. 

The original bastide was surrounded by walls with gates. Place Marechal LeClerc is the central market area.

In typical fashion, Mirepoix's market square is remarkably unchanged since 1290. The open air center with a covered market is surrounded by arcaded shops and cafés. 

open central square

arcaded commercial buildings

covered market - Les Couverts

Those who moved to the bastide were given a house, a small kitchen garden plot, and a larger plot outside the city walls. They were released as vassals from the local lord/landowner and became free men. In return they paid taxes on their house and on all trade in the market. Bastides encouraged the growth of trade and commerce, contributing to the end of feudalism. 

The square is surrounded by houses from the 13th-15th centuries.

The House of Consuls is especially interesting for its carved corbels. 

Mirepoix's church is also unique. The cathedral of St Maurice has the 2nd widest Gothic arch in the world. It's also beautiful.

It's difficult to get a photo of the church because it's surrounded by buildings in the very center of town, as was the custom.

St Maurice Cathedral in Mirepoix

A town well worth the visit. 

Tomorrow the group will visit the cave at Niaux to see the cave paintings - some of the only original ones that visiters can see. Most now are copies, like Lascaux, due to the damage caused by the CO2 in our breath. I won't go as there is no handicapped accessibility as you might expect.