Friday, May 17, 2024

Montelieu & Saissac (encore)

 The town of Montelieu is on my list to visit. It is known as the village of books and crafts. So today is the day we are heading there. It's about an hour and a half north and a bit east from Le Cazal. 


We arrived about 12:30, found a place to park in the center of town, next to the church, 

St Andre parish church

and made our way to the town square for lunch. It was Saturday and the town was very quiet. 

Our typical lunch: sandwich, fruit, mustard potato chips

We sat on a bench dedicated to the local pétanque team (boules players, or bowlers) which I found amusing. Pétanque games are played on smooth gravel and frequently in the center of town, so this was not an unusual place to find a memorial bench. But it had a saying that amused me. The bench lists names of pétanque players and also reads: "The proof that God is a friend of bowlers is that the leaves of plane trees are proportionate to the strength of the sun." Marcel Pagnol




Plane trees with owls swinging in them behind Lynn

After lunch we crossed the street for a visit to St. André church, built in the 13th and 14th centuries.

St. André is typical southern Gothic with one wide nave and side chapels

We followed signs for the tourist office, expecting it to be closed. (It was open) and walked out onto the bridge that for a view of Montelieu perched on a cliff above the Alzeau River. The Dure River circles the town on the other side. 

Montelieu above the Alzeau River

Now that it was 2:00, shops should be opening for the afternoon - assuming they were open at all on Saturday afternoon in the non-tourist season. But a few were open.

searching for open book stores

not open

Dave found lots of old maps

Dale found an interesting shop near the church

Kim had a long chat with the owner of this book store and finally escaped with a couple of children's books for the grandkids. 

Kim and Dale checking out the children's books

Kim talking to the owner as she pays for her books.

The town is charming and worth the stroll even if lots of things were closed. It is a book lovers paradise with many, many used book stores. Some store fronts advertised artisanal wares and would be fun to explore the next time. Some views that amused me:

"a book is a tool of liberty" and "each reading is an act of resistance."

The Art of being a Grandmother

paintings on the side of a building

A square named after an academic.

Dave wants to go back to Saissac which is nearby to try to visit the ruined castle that we only saw from a distance last time through town. 

The castle is a ruin, albeit an interesting one


Dave talked me into descending into the old part of town which is very steep and narrow at times. With a bit of backtracking, we found a way down without any stairs - UNTIL we got to the entrance for the castle. I could go no further. So while Dave, Dale and Kim explored the castle, I waited in the lovely, sunny and warm square by the church. What I could see: 


the church interior

cherries ripening

What they saw:






When it was time to leave, Dave managed to get only partway down by car. Narrow roads and hairpin curves were well managed - UNTIL Dave came upon a car parked so that it blocked the road completely. So, with pushing help from the boys, I was able to manage the steep ascent to the car. Dave masterfully maneuvered the car out of the tight spaces of these narrow streets and we finally reached the main road. Whew! That could have been a disaster!

That night we invited Lorna and David over for aperos. Several bottles and lots of shared adventures later, the party broke up around 10:30. We have really found a delightful place to stay this time!

Poor quality photo because it's 9:30 at night. Note that it gets cold in the evening.


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