Thursday, May 23, 2024

Carcassonne Encore - May 17, 2024


First, a public safety message: If you put champagne in the freezer to chill, don't forget to take it out. Left overnight, you will have to clean your freezer in the morning.

It's not like us to forget about a bottle of wine, but we wanted to cool it quickly when we got home. Oops! 

Carcassonne is one of southern France's "can't miss" sites and also one we love. Wandering along the streets and alleys of Carcassonne, even though not quite historically accurate, allows you to feel what it was like living in the 13th century. So, we are off to Carcassonne again, in search of cassoulet and beautiful sights. And the sun is shining.

Carcassonne is touristy busy this Friday. I'm not sure if it's because it was the final destination & celebration of yesterday's Olympic Flame run through the department of Aude which started in Narbonne, ran through Limoux as we've seen, and finished in Carcassonne. Nevertheless, there are lots of people on the main streets. 

lots of tourists today

While Dan, Paulette, and Judy explored the castle and its ramparts, Dave and I wandered streets we'd never walked. Once onto the little used side streets, it is less busy and easier to imagine oneself in medieval times. 

ramparts looking toward the mountains

side streets weren't congested

Dan along the ramparts

We also made a lunch reservation at a quiet restaurant with a great view of the castle. 

view from the restaurant Le Saint Jean

We met at the park outside the castle barbican where a lovely German lady took our picture.

Judy, Lynn, Dave, Paulette, Dan at the castle

We had a lovely, warm, sunny table for lunch. 

Paulette and Dan at lunch

view of the castle from our restaurant

Judy tried an eggplant dish which she pronounced excellent. Dave and Dan got the menu which included a first course. They both chose chicken gizzard salad which they pronounced excellent. Then the cassoulet which we all liked.

salade aux gésiers - gizzard salad

Judy's eggplant - tarte tatin aux aubergines avec salade

cassoulet, naturellement

After lunch, we explored the rest of the city.





Our last conquest was to walk around the city between the two defensive walls, a distance of about 3 km (about 2 miles), but we are only doing from the Porte d'Aude to the Porte Narbonnaise. Because there are steps at the Porte d'Aude, I had to start backwards from the Porte Narbonnaise and meet them halfway and then go the rest of the way back to the Port de Narbonne. 

starting at the Porte d'Aude


view from the "lices", the space between the two defensive walls

A school class was also walking the "lices"

On our way home, we stopped at the Monastery of Our Lady of Prouille, the Dominican motherhouse near Fanjeaux. When Dominic Guzman and his bishop arrived, the church and hamlet of Prouille were crumbling. By installing themselves deep in Cathar territory, they intended to convert Cathars to Catholicism by preaching and teaching. This house was also to be a sanctuary for women who had converted. It was slowly enriched by donations including from Simon de Montfort. The monastery we see today is an 1883 reconstruction of the original buildings that were completely destroyed in the French Revolution. 



Walking the "lices" in Carcassonne did not provide enough steps, so a short hike from our house in Le Cazal to Manses (about 2 km) finished the day.



Judy and Paulette look at the Mairie (Mayor's office) in the corner. Manses is a very small village.


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